Catwoman / D4C

[marc_reusser]

Really nice work on the build and and detailing of this kit ........it definitely paid off. But then we expect no less from you 

I like how the gray you chose underneth starts to give the feel of raw metal. Some edges/chipped areas you might want to compliment with some sponge chipping to soften them at the edges (feel more "worn")...and you my want to add some "positive" chips back in at some of the large more blotchy chips/areas, as well as to detail some of the chip edges......but I am just being critical and nit-picky. I look forward to seeing this progress.


Marc

[Bill76]

@ Dallas, Ray : thanks for following.

@Marc : I still need some advices, you know. So anyone can feel free for any comment or experience. This project makes me think a lot about painting. Building a kit or just scratching is a thing but painting is becoming more and more interesting. You are completely right by saying how important is the first coat of paint as the grey. That gives a very strong impression after a long building process.

The main thing I learn is the importance of the rusty effects even if I tried to create different shades with sponge and airbrush. These effects have to be subtle and I've been too ''light'' in the modulation of paint. In fact, this step is as important as the final color of the model. Quite interesting job but still more job to do !!

On the other hand, the HS technique has to be improved a lot to control the final result. I notice that the AK Worn Effects / Heavy Chipping fluids are correctly laid on a acrylic paint. But on a mate varnished surface, these fluids make drops and when it dried, I'm not sure that the coat is regular even if I use the airbrush for very thin layers. I have some bad surprises ! So, if anyone can tell me the best way to apply these fluids on a varnished surface.

[Bill76]

Some parts of the model have to be repainted because of too hard scratches with the brush and because the paint wasn't sticked enough. Grrrrrrrr !!!!!!

The decals are made on computer and ink printed on a special sheet of waterslide paper. Four ''Caterpillar'' for the front grill, the back fuel tank and two for the sides of the seat. One more decal is for the factory licence plate and the other red one is just for fantasy. This one gives a small touch of red paint in this yellow ocean.

Georges.

[Bill76]

A coat of satin varnish and after a coat of mate varnish will seal the decals. The seat is paint in black (Citadel Black Chaos) and dry brush with Codex Gray / Fortress Gray from Citadel as well. The seat won't be destroyed as John's Caterpillar one ! Maybe for the next one ...

I will add probably a ''dust-cloth'' on it to cope with the overall aspect of the dozer.

[marc_reusser]

I am looking at these images, here is my critique/suggestions/what I seem to feel:

Use hairspray instead of the Chipping Fluid...it should solve your texture problem.

Some of the areas look like the paint is on very thick (part of this is likely due to trying to cover the base ctones...yellow can be tough to work with as it doesn't always cover very well)...this will make it difficult to chip, and they will tend to come off in larger chunks. Thinner layer s also will allow you to better control your chipping.

When doing the panel shading and such, as you did on top....instead of putting down the dark yellow first, put down the light color first (over some HS)....then shoot another coat of HS...then apply the darker color. This does two things. The lighter color underneath will create a base for the darker yellow over...and you will be able to shoot a thinner coat of the dark. ...secondly...when you chip, you will have lighter edges or shading around the edge of the chips (as is often seen on heavy equipment scratshes/chips)...and because you have two layers of HS, if you are careful, you will be able to chip through the first (dark layer) and leave the lower in-tact, or mostly in-tact. (this will give you some nice variation).

There are a lot of large worn areas, and blotches, but no small fine scratches and such. The kind caused by say shrubs and tree branches, wire fences, and other small things that hit parts of the dozer. (these can be made by very lightly drawing a thin sewing pin/needle acros the surface...not enough to fo down through the primer though (I do them so light that at times they are hard to see)...then woking a maed soft brush dampened with water, back and forth across them (perpendiculartly)...till the just start to show. Sim can be done with a sharpened toothpick for another scratch size/detail...but it takes more pressure to create the initial scratch.

Try "mapping" or painting in "positive chips", into reduce the size or correct/alter the shape of some of the large chips. You can also map areas adjacent to chips to create a more layered/varied/damaged paint effect. (If you look at the recent pic of the Daihatsu build, you can see on the interior where I did this intentionally with a different shade of blue (there are actually also other less niticeable ones in other shades)...this was both done for effect, as well as to correct/hide some areas that I felt had too much, or incorrect, chipping.

I think you are putting too much concern and empahsis on the initial color modulation.....much of this affect can be achieved/accentuated/modified after painting, using artists oil paints....and with much more control and finesse. Adding/using Filters ...varying per panel, and changing hue/color in sunny vs shaded areas, will also help accentuate/create this effect.

Dont forget that you can also do panel fading and discoloration using the artists oils....this again will help define individual parts of the model.

[Bill76]

@Marc : thanks for all these advices.
This yellow paint is very thick to light the rusty color. Even if I use the Citadel Foundation yellow paint. The paint was as thick as a skin and the water / brush work has been very hazardous and hard to control despite a low amount of AK fluid.

But you will see in the forthcoming pictures of the blade that, finally, this accident has some interesting results like remaining chips that rolls (sorry not to be able to describe this effect correctly). You will see the pictures.

It is correct that oil paints give more variation and discoloration and maybe it could be easier that the modulation process. Need to try some more !
Georges.

[mabloodhound]

Yes, that is good where the paint is peeling back like that.   
Very realistic.
Well beyond my capabilities.

[finescalerr]

If you are new to these techniques and your results are that good then you have a lot of talent! It looks very good so far, even with its minor flaws. -- Russ

[Bill76]

@Dave and Russ : thnak yoy for your comments. Maybe I'm a serious student teaching with good teachers !

I'm starting the coats of oil paints with a selection of various tones (rust, blue, green and white). I put some paint on a cartboard to keep the excess of oil and to prevent from a gloss finish on the CAT. After twenty or thirty minutes, the paint seems ready to be thin with odourless white spirit. The paint is applied like spots in a random application and brushed in round circles or with straight lines from the top to the bottom on the vertical panels.

It's not my favourite process but when dried, the results are very interesting and subtles.

[Bill76]

Some rainmarks and rustmarks appear very nicely and give slowly more strenght to this model. New parts are fitted on the front side of the hood as the lights. The body (globe ?) of the light is made with a pearl to decorate T-shirts (fixed with a iron), a hole is drilled for the electric wire and the light is a car light with a chrome circle. I really like the shape of these lights on the Caterpillar's crawlers and it gives some ''personnal style'', maybe a kind of ''froggy style'' ! Ther wera usually protected by a grill not represented on my project. Need some more good eyes to built this detail ....

Two more round extra lights will be added on the canopy at the back of the crawler.

Georges.

[Bill76]

The entire chassis is done in the same tones. Even if the oil paints give a satin finish. The pigments will be applied at the end on the diorama. The oil paints have been applied after a coat of varnish on the layers of acrylic paints. No reaction to declare !

[Bill76]

The track system will be painted and and weathered following the same process.

Georges

[finescalerr]

The light yellow (faded) area on the engine hood may need a little work to blend in. Aside from that I see little to criticize. -- Russ

[Bill76]

@Russ. You're right that top part of the hood needs some more tone but I was expenting to make a constrast as this part could be a ''second hand part'' coming from another old caterpillar hood.

Maybe a little more paint to ajust the contrast.

Georges.

[JohnTolcher]

Hi Georges, this is a very interesting project, I like how it's going.

On the other hand, the HS technique has to be improved a lot to control the final result. I notice that the AK Worn Effects / Heavy Chipping fluids are correctly laid on a acrylic paint. But on a mate varnished surface, these fluids make drops and when it dried, I'm not sure that the coat is regular even if I use the airbrush for very thin layers. I have some bad surprises ! So, if anyone can tell me the best way to apply these fluids on a varnished surface.

I've had this problem also, not just over varnish but any bottom coat. Sometimes when airbrushed the worn effects fluid tends to form little droplets or pools on the surface. When they dry, these are the areas that chip most easily, leaving these blob shaped chips in places you don't want them!

As Marc says you could use hairspray, I've started using it lately and it doesn't have that problem. All that stuff Marc mentioned is good advice. Also when I use the worn effects fluid now I thin it with soapy water to break the surface tension. You still need to spray it on very lightly and build it up in layers, but if you can make a nice smooth coat of just the right thickness, then the scratches you can achieve are amazing! It takes some practice and care though.

Looking forward to more mate!