Vacuum-forming or heat-forming styrene sheet ???

[Malachi Constant]

Hey Guys --

It seems to me, there have been one or more threads or bits here about shaping styrene sheet over a wooden mandrel or form ... maybe something Ken Hamilton did on one of his project?  I think it was along the lines of vacuum-forming without a vacuum  ... something about warming/stretching styrene sheet over the form ...

Does this ring any bells?  Y'all know if that's been posted here and, if so, where?     

Considering doing a range hood like the one shown below ... it would be a bugger to build up the shape by itself, but a breeze to make a solid form ... if I can find out what to do from there ...     

Thanks!
Dallas

[mad gerald]

Dallas,

It seems to me, there have been one or more threads or bits here about shaping styrene sheet over a wooden mandrel or form ... maybe something Ken Hamilton did on one of his project?  I think it was along the lines of vacuum-forming without a vacuum   ... something about warming/stretching styrene sheet over the form ...

Does this ring any bells?  Y'all know if that's been posted here and, if so, where?      

... a vacuum-method is mentioned here ... http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1986.0 ... but I'm not quite sure if this, what you're after (as there's no styrene involved) ... ?!?!? And Marc did some warming/forming styrene (rear wall IIRC) over a piece of wood in his Gas Mechanical Bash-thread

Cheers

[marc_reusser]

I did it here on the Bachmann rebuild as well http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=437.90,  unfortunately most of the pics on in the thread are missing, as they were part of the old Terrapin site, but the text and a couple of uploaded pics are still there.


Just buy more styrene than you think you will need, and use oven mitts or Mechanix heat resitant gloves, if using the heat gun and pull-forming.

[greenie]

Malachi, it is easy to do, the only thing is the time it will take you, to make the vacuum box and frames for the sheet styrene.

It's a very handy item to have at your disposal, lots of endless possibilities will pop up for you to use it.

Here's a link to what I used as a starting point, read everything, as what he say's, is correct.

http://www.automodeler.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=1243

It works really well, make sure that the vacuum box you make, is big enough or, even a bit bigger than what you think you will need.
It's easy to make it a smaller working area, but you can't ever make it bigger.

I used chip board to make the sides and used a slab of old acrylic for the top with the holes drilled in it. Used a tube of silicone to seal every joint so it doesn't leak.
To make the work area smaller, to save on styrene, I used a vinyl floor tile with a hole cut in it, to suit the smaller frames I needed.

Two sized frames, small and large, so I can do a lot bigger items when needed.

Make sure the bucks you make are smaller than the article you require by the thickness of the styrene you going to use

Just have to watch the styrene when it's in the oven softening, so it does not droop down too far and break, then make a mess on the oven floor, S.W.M.B.O. will not approve of that happening at all.

Here's what my vac box looks like,






With the reduced size floor tile in place










Had to make a seat and a few other bits for this.

[finescalerr]

Does anybody here do less than outstanding work? -- Russ

[Gordon Ferguson]

Dallas,

Vacuum forming is the professional way to go, but if you want the amateur way 'cause you can't be bothered building the vacuum boxe this might help

http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=549.msg26521#msg26521

no need to feel overwhelming feelings of guilt Marc

For your "simple shape " should not be difficult , suggest you do it on the vertical plane not from the wall, you might stretch the plastic too much , use something like 30thou plastic card and make sure the tolerance between the carved mould shape and the flat piece with the hole is no more than about 2mm. Another thought make your carved mould about 10 to 15mm deeper than you actually need so you can trim away the curve.

[marc_reusser]

no need to feel overwhelming feelings of guilt Marc

OUCH!  (bang head)

[marc_reusser]

Hot Damn! That is beautiful little coach!

[billmart]

Dallas -
You might want to take a look here.
http://www.7-8ths.info/index.php?topic=16680998.0

Jim Russell, who is an excellent styrene modeler in 1:13.7 scale (7/8ths inch = 1 foot), describes the vacuum former he built, and a technique he uses to improve the process in certain instances.

Bill Martinsen

[greenie]

Hot Damn! That is beautiful little coach!

Hi Mark, it's not small at all, it's actually a 1/8th scale model.

regards  greenie  


pssst,----- it's called a Sydney Brass Sulky, for very obvious reasons.

[finescalerr]

That thing belongs in a museum. Adequate. -- Russ

[greenie]

Thank you, for the compliments Russ and Marc.



regards greenie

[Ray Dunakin]

Ken Hamilton used the non-vacuum method to create the hood of his 1/24th scale Lumber Buggy. It's on this page of his build thread:

http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=405.15

[Malachi Constant]

Outstanding response! 

Thanks to EVERYONE for those very helpful answers -- I "think" I've worked out how I want to approach this ... will report back one way or another ... (cuz I hate it when someone posts one of those "how do you do this?" threads and then never responds about whether or not the replies and suggestions worked!)  (Obviously, you guys are getting this to work ... so that's encouraging!) 

RAY -- That's the one I was trying to remember!  Bonus points to you. 

Cheers,
Dallas

[chester]

Gorgeous sulky. Good luck with the stretching Dallas.