A snapshot in time. A glimpse of the Plettenberger Kleinbahn in 1/22.5 scale.

[Bernhard]

I can only marvel at every post. This time I was particularly impressed by the basement lamp.

Bernhard

[Hydrostat]

Hello everyone,


I hope you're all okay out there in those crazy times. It's a bit hard to pretend that there's business as usual, but well, here we go.


For the shop window lighting, I wanted to use a directed light that only illuminates a specific area without illuminating the entire room, which also has its own ceiling lighting:




For two of the three large shop windows, I used LED rods that are inserted into a cut-open, opaque plastic tube.




Brass tubes into which the adjacent LED rod is soldered and which have an M1 thread at the opposite end serve as a detachable electrical connection. A small screw holds them in the handle bar holder, to which the actual power supply is invisibly soldered.




This allows the visible power lines to be indicated in a realistic manner.




The lines used to be attached with very rudimentary clamps or simple metal strips. This can be easily done with self-adhesive copper foil.




This is what it looks like during the day and at night:







The shadow is created by a shelf placed on the display surface, I might change that again later when the interior design is completed.

For the third, slightly more modern display window with a suspended ceiling, I chose a different variant made of individual lights.







The lamps consist of a machined part of a brass eyelet and attached hemispherical costume jewelry parts.





Cheers,
Volker

[Hauk]

Excellent miniature work as usual!

[Bill Gill]

Volker, Very creative way to model the lighting fixtures. I really like finding ways to convert "stuff" into believable model details.

[1-32]

Hi Volker.
It's good to see a bit of sanity, as usual impressive.
All the best Kim

[Hydrostat]

Thank you, Hauk, Bill and Kim,

I really like finding ways to convert "stuff" into believable model details.

So do I, and it most times it is even more rewarding than constructing an item for 3D printing.


The wall paneling in the hallway was made from veneer strips that I glued onto a paper printout.




The upper end strip and the attached decorative strips can easily be positioned on top of this. Everything is glued together with thin CA.




The strips created in this way are then cut to the required length and then painted before installation.




I used Revell or Humbrol paint for this. The stairs to the upper floor will be inserted into the slanted recess, more on that later.





Cheers,
Volker

[Ray Dunakin]

The lights are great, very realistic! Where did you get the rod LEDs?

[finescalerr]

Superb, as usual. -- Russ

[Bernhard]

It all looks so incredibly realistic. Well done.

Bernhard

[Hydrostat]

The lights are great, very realistic! Where did you get the rod LEDs?

Ray,
those are 1.8 mm diffuse warmwhite LEDs. I bought them here. The shortened rods are very useful to plug them into those sockets.
 
The stairs from the first floor to the attic were still missing. The required dimensions can be derived in an idiot-proof way from the CAD design of the entire building and converted into a drawing, which then serves as an assembly aid.




For the steps I cut pear wood strips to the required length and width, and everything is glued together with thin superglue. Since the parts will be painted later, glue stains are not an issue.




For right-angled assembly, I use an inserted strip of the appropriate height.




The foolproof nature of a CAD design ends when you get the wrong reference point, but you only notice this when you put the almost finished object into the building. Red = ACTUAL, green = DESIRED.






A staircase is always an individual thing in terms of tread, step width and gradient and can hardly be adapted for a different installation situation, but I wanted to reuse the parts if possible: If you put the component in hot water and wait a while, parts glued together with superglue can be easily removed.




The railing can now be adapted to the staircase that has now been assembled with the correct dimensions - again with the help of a printout. First, the handrail is made from a round and a rectangular profile.




For the railing struts, I glue round pieces of wood (toothpicks) onto an auxiliary structure, which is then cut off on one side, serving as a sawing template.




The railing is then glued to the resulting cut surfaces.




The process is then repeated on the other side and the railing can be mounted on the stair stringer.






Cheers
Volker

[Bill Gill]

Nice recovery, Volker, being able to reuse the same parts for the stairs. And that's a neat way to add the ballisters to the stair railing.

[Sami]

As usual it's amazing !

[finescalerr]

Your modeling skills make me strongly consider finding a new hobby. -- Russ