1/16 Diorama - Backyard Hospital Supply Railway (inspired by Lainz)

[Chuck Doan]

Very nice result!

[mad gerald]

... thanks, guys ...

Along with the Tamiya Acrylics came a rattle can "Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000" I ordered as well. I never used that primer before, but am very pleased with the result applying a first layer of primer. Regarding the bulk head wagon I'm not quite sure if I'd have to simulate welding lines as well where the square tubes are connected, apart from the fact, that I discovered the bulkheads not being exactly adjusted in an angle of 90 degrees in relation to the cargo area ... hmmmmm, would be good enough for colouring and weathering exercise  ... have to build a couple of wagons anyway ... 





Cheers

[finescalerr]

Good start. -- Russ

[lab-dad]

That Mr. Surfacer is good stuff!

I think the model would look good with the weld lines.

-Marty

[mad gerald]

G'evening all,

Because I was afraid to spoil my small exercise building I glued some card board bricks on a separate strip of card board and tried 2 different kinds of colour: Acrylic colour on the left, but I was not able to mix the base colour Marc achieved (BTW: Has he been 'round here recently? )  ...

The LP's thought a mix of Tamiya acrylics (Brown, XF-10 and Yellow, XF-3) for a base coat might help me feel better about the wrong sized bricks.... not likely.

... artist water colour on the right, showing at first a much more matching base colour.

To apply the joint mortar into the joints at first I tried to sweep it in, using a paint brush (and the mortar to be fixed it with a layer of clear varnish when applied) - which did not work quite proper, especially because the mortar powder stuck too much to the surface of the bricks - or would not stay in the joints.

I then applied diluted PVAC glue with a paint brush into the joints, scattered the mortar all over it, removing the surplus of mortar with a bristle brush and a damp tissue. The artist water colour began to dissolve immediately and turned into a mess, the acrylic colour (even not protected by a layer of clear varnish yet) worked by far better - if I only could manage to mix a suitable base colour ...  



Cheers

[marc_reusser]

Gerald, I think you need to add more yellow to the brown. I used Tamiyathinned with the X-20 thinner (or maybe the lacquer tninner...cant recall at themoment), because it acts as both a stainand paint, and dries dead flat/matte, and is very durable. 

I then sealed the bricks with a couple of heavy coats....can't recall if I used matte atists varnish or Dullcoat(it should be here in the forum thread or one of the mag articles)......regardless, the coats were applied heavily, with a brush...making sure that it flowed into the joints to seal those and the edges of the bricks.

Grouting was done with pre-mixed lightweight spackle ( this is the very lightweight fluffy stuff that comes in a plastic tub)....into which was added some acrylic paint/color. This mix was then troweled/spread into the joints, and wiped away (off the surface) using a fine damp sponge and left to dry.

[mad gerald]

Marc,

thanks for dropping in and support ...

... I think you need to add more yellow to the brown. I used Tamiyathinned with the X-20 thinner (or maybe the lacquer tninner...cant recall at themoment), because it acts as both a stainand paint, and dries dead flat/matte, and is very durable. 

... I guess I'll need 1 or 2 more exercise strips to create a similar colouring, to continue with the exercise building then.

Not quite sure yet, if I'm gonna follow your grouting technique too, as mine seems to have a pleasing result as well (hmmm - at least at first sight) ...  

Cheers

[mad gerald]

G'day all,

Thanks to Marc's advice I was able to create the desired base colour with a single attempt, the necessary Tamiya thinner I forgot to order was replaced by isopropanol/isopropyl alcohol (70 %) without further ado:



I tried the further colouring on another exercise strip, using Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics. Regarding the upper 4 lines of bricks I applied the colours highly diluted, dabbing them immediately with a tissue. Regarding the lower 4 lines of bricks I applied the colours using dry brush technique. Again I then applied diluted PVAC glue with a paint brush into the joints, scattered the mortar all over it, removing the surplus of mortar first with a bristle brush and then removed with a sponge the greyish haze caued by the joint mortar.





Cheers

[finescalerr]

I doubt many people will know you used paper. -- Russ

[Ray Dunakin]

Great bricks! I like the colors of the upper bricks.

[marc_reusser]

Perfect! Great results!
Like Russ said, I doubt anyone could tell that they are paper.

...now we need to work on that wood.

[Chuck Doan]

Nice progression of ideas. Success!

[mad gerald]

...now we need to work on that wood.

... you bet ...  

G'day all,

Recently I was researching the WWW to find out what kinda logistic solutions hospitals use nowadays to distribute the supply goods. Very often I found so called tugger trains: pallet sized wagons pulled by an electric truck/trolley. These pallet sized wagons have an unified platform to carry wooden pallets, metal pallets, container pallets, pallets with waste containers (with lid) etc. These tugger trains could just as well run on rails ...

I found this concept very convincing, especially as it offers by far more possibilites regarding the material loaded compared to a common bulk head wagon.

Having some leisure time at the moment, I created a new buildup for the wagon: a pallet carrier platform. The bulkheads and the load floor will be left out in future ... different pallets will be made as well (some day) ...

[mad gerald]

G'day all,

I developed and built a flat car/pallet car for my hospital supply railway. It is designed to carry a variety of pallets regarding supply, maintenance and waste removal. It is heavily inspired by the so called tugger trains being used in hospitals and commerce/industry logistics generally.

It is totally scratchbuilt using Evergreen styrene sheets, strips and shapes, (some of the latter reworked on my Boehler saw), brass screws M 0,8 x 2 (some of 'em blackened) and Fermatec wheels with resin core, mounted on brass axles, especially made for this gauge on a lathe. The axles will run in ball bearings (1 x 3 mm).



Cheers

[mad gerald]

G'day all,

my first modern Feldbahn flat car, heavily inspired by wagons of so called tugger trains, is almost done and already primed with Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000. It ist totally scratchbuilt using different kinds of Evergreen sheets and shapes and brass screws (M 0,8 x 2 mm). The loading area has the dimensions of a Europoolpallet, which makes 75 x 50 mm in 1/16 scale. I'm gonna buils several kind of pallets for this flat car (and the following flat cars). The axles run in real rollerbearings (3 x 1 mm) and the axle-bearings will be inserted in the axle-boxes from underneath. In the meantime I discovered a mighty fine prototype for a similar constructed bulkhead flat car, which has been used around a military plant/fort in Switzerland (Gotthard region) between a terminal and a funicular system.

Cheers