1950 Ford F1 Pick Up (1/25 Scale)

[marc_reusser]

Gordon,

I wanted to give credit where credit was due .


IIRC on the carburetor, I used an AlClad aluminum finish over a black base coat, followed by a light misting of the AlClad burnt metal or burnt chrome. Then it got a light pin wash with dark oil color to add some depth/bring out the detail.

[Gordon Ferguson]

Thanks.

Alclad, the devils brew of the painting world ...... For us non painters

[Krusty]

If those are just the out-takes the book will be worth buying.

[lab-dad]

Thanks Mark!
Great tips, tricks and methods.
Looking forward to trying some of these on a 1/16 truck.
Marty

[miwi]

Great model and a lot of details.  :)Some areas of your model reminds me of the look of my '52 Ford F1 (scale 1:1) 

[Junior]

Fantastic addition to the book. One of the best SBS´ I have ever seen! Thanks very much for posting!

Ferguson....what´s the matter with Alclad paints? They are just as great as above SBS  !


Anders

[Chuck Doan]

I'm glad to see more on this too.

I haven't used Alclad, but it seems tricky. Sort of like Bare Metal Foil...what sadist came up with that? I admire those who wield both products well.

[Ray Dunakin]

Marc, what do you use to glue the painted parts together?

[Franck Tavernier]

Fantastic job Marc, as always!

An excellent complement to the Ak's book.

Franck

[David King]

Thanks.

Alclad, the devils brew of the painting world ...... For us non painters

Only the chrome is a PIA, their other metal finishes are great, just like using any other paint, I use their aluminum and steel finishes all the time.  They do require an airbrush though.

David

[Gordon Ferguson]

"Just like any other paint"

You hit the nail on the head there David 

[David King]

David; The shiny stuff is harder to do.  

Not harder, just different.  You can't make a mistake with the shiny stuff because it's usually impossible to fix or hide. However, the process is relatively simple, just prep and paint.  The only research that may be required is finding out the exact paint code and getting an exact match but few car modelers bother and few judges know the difference.  Heavy weathering allows the opportunity to fix/hide your mistakes relatively easily but there is much research required as well as specialized techniques to get realistic results.  Just a week ago I helped judge a small local model car contest.  The model that won the contest was a heavily weathered example however nowhere near the caliber of stuff shown here, not by miles, (it was a small, local contest remember, a free one at that.) there where many errors of logic and failure to be realistic, panel rust through where no water could have possibly gathered as one example.  I'm no expert on weathering but that one jumped right out at me.  Still, it was the best model at the contest, I guess that indicates the quality thereof.

David

[marc_reusser]

Yes, logic and detail is where IMO so many weathered models start to fail. One does have to really think about how materials and things weather in different environments and under different uses. People need to understand what happens, where, and why, to something they are weathering. They need to do thorough photographic research of examples, and then be prudent in their selection of weathering.

I find you also almost always really have to up-detail....meaning add to, or refine, or completely replace the detailing (speaking of car kits here), as it is often missing some of the subtle small ridges, folds, edges and other fine detail, as well as generally being "chunky" and frequently poorly molded...and it is at these areas where weathering often starts and accumulates....so it is important to have this to give a reason and location to what is happening.

Mind you, I find this second part, re. the detailing, just as important when doing a beautiful shiny vehicle. The lack of this was to me the most disappointing, and affected every single car model, at the recent IPMS contest. No matter how beautifully assembled and painted, there was not a single one, that to me did not look like a toy car......none looked like like a "scale" vehicle.  Two big failures that IMO really contributes to this on those car models was: The lack of the added and refined, or more true "scale" dimensions on the fine detail, and the lack of some kind of modulation or shading.....maybe those are the wrong terms....but chrome and shiny color at that scale need to be toned down (scale effect), chrome and shiny paint parts need "depth" in the reveals and recesses...candy apple red should not be as bright in the door crack or edge as it is on the door or hood surface....chrome in the recesses and nooks o a ribbed cylinder head should not be as bright as that on perfectly smooth surfaces....plus, the chrome really needs to be toned down just a bit.....again, for scale effect.....most all the chrome I saw there looked like a cheap kids toy...too thick, and too shiny, thus rendering it out of scale to the vehicle. Lastly ...and this is a personal gripe.....give it up with the metal flake finish....there was not a single one I saw, where the flake looked anywhere close or subtle enough to be in scale with the vehicle.

....all of these reasons and the skills it takes to overcome them,  for me, make it very difficult to achieve a good/believable effect on a shiny vehicle...and thus I stay away from trying them (aside from the fact that I am by nature not that drawn to shiny things )

[David King]

Now I understand where you're coming from.  Yes, it would be very difficult to achieve that kind of realism in a shiny model, I know I've never approached that. That may be the reason I've been drawn to weathered subjects at times, but then I get distracted by shiny objects and don't linger with the rusty for very long.  Maybe I'll change finally, maybe not, can never tell with me. 

[Andi Little]

Tis' true what the boy he doth say ...................

This little MG, was about the best I could do - and I was trying my damnedest. You wouldn't credit the amount of fettling that's gone on with this project, it took me years for instance to figure out how to hand lace wheels ... and of course now every General and his Army does it, stripping and rebuilding the Radiator, re-profiling and re-sculpting body panels ............ actually waay too much to mention. But despite everything (and trying to take into account pretty much most everything Marc' mentioned) I ran out of talent anyway.
This build is probably ten years old or more now, and back in it's day it perhaps(?) shone quite brightly(?) But it would easy to tear it apart nowadays - almost an embarrassment to grace these pages with it.
And truth be told it pretty much finished me with Auto' modelling - at least in the Replica stock and Factory Stock categories.
...........Those things that mark mentions: Well they're pretty much impossible to reproduce in scale ... and what with being partially sighted - myopic you see? (s'cuse pun). I needed really to relax a bit more with my modelling (Which is why I've got onto a whole Wingnut wings kick!!!!!{excuse the irony)! .............And why I've been trying to get to grips with this whole "weathering" thing ... unsuccessfully it seems, so far!

Just saying that's all..............