• Welcome to Westlake Publishing Forums.
 

News:

    REGARDING MEMBERSHIP ON THIS FORUM: Due to spam, our server has disabled the forum software to gain membership. The only way to become a new member is for you to send me a private e-mail with your preferred screen name (we prefer you use your real name, or some variant there-of), and email adress you would like to have associated with the account.  -- Send the information to:  Russ at finescalerr@msn.com

Main Menu

1/35 Gas Mechanical Bash

Started by marc_reusser, July 26, 2008, 01:56:17 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

LeOn3

Marc,

great job on the build sofar. I'm curious on the paint job. Is it goine be all rusty and weathered or will it look like its just out of the factory? ;)

Leon

marc_reusser

Leon,

I think it will likely fall somewhere in between.....not much rust...but sort of a well used, but maintained loco.  The hard part at the moment is trying to decide what kind of industry she is serving (IE. quarry, brick works, peat, or just a loco used for shunting around a dusty/grimy factory)....as this will determine how dirty and worn to make her.

Marc

I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

marc_reusser

#152
I was chomping at the bit to make some progress on this build, but in doing so I almost screwed it up. The air here is still so dry, that the primer was starting to dry even before it hit the surface.....The only thing that saved my butt was the way Mr. Surfacer "sucks" down to the surface and almost seems to level itself out when dry.

Here is the model after two coats of "Mr Surfacer 1200" primer (with some light filling and sanding after the first caot). Unfortunately the primer has brought out many of the small air bubble holes in the poor quality resin castings...some I filled, others are just to much of a pain to deal with cleanly (and new ones keep coming up when sanding in areas).....so I will hopefully be able to integrate and conceal these during the painting and especially the weathering stages.








Now to decide on the color of purple and dark green to use for the next step.



Marc


I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

lab-dad

Nice to see some progress on this.
You know I have a fondness for critters!
Glad the primer is okay, when will you ever be able to do color?
Speaking of which, dont you mean green and yeller?

p.s. you gonna paint up that figure from the initial posts?

-Marty

marc_reusser

Green and Yeller!?...this aint the Conspiracy man....its all abou "trippin" colors here  daddy-o.  ;D...don't be bogartin my psychadelic high  ;D ;D

They keep saying the weather is supposed to change...but that has been going on for weeks now.....Weathermen are really just one step above the denizens of the "short bus".  The real issue is that I need to shoot Vallejo....and even under ideal conditions they dry fast. I am trying not to get involveed with using retarder, as it just adds one more thing to the mix.

Paint my figure!....no way....not after the comments and critiques I made about yours....I know when to cover my rear ;) ;D


Marc
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

Franck Tavernier

Nice job Marc!

You gave me inspiration with this little gas loco for my mining layout  ;) Richard Denot (SBLC) launched a new run of his kit, with some improvements like a new hollow bonnet...

What did you used to lock the panel on the bonnet of your model? I found nice plastic wing nut from Model Kasten...

I also bought the little critter from Sidelines in Gn15, but they are a perfect base for 1:35 scale...



http://www.levelz.co.uk/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.levelz.co.uk/acatalog/catalogbody.html&CatalogBody

http://www.levelz.co.uk/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.levelz.co.uk/acatalog/catalogbody.html&CatalogBody

Franck

shropshire lad

Marc,

   If dry air is a problem for the painting of your loco just send it over here as the air here is very damp and cool ! I promise I'll look after it very well on my soon to be built 1/35th layout !

Nick

marc_reusser

I would actually consider that (once it's painted though).....the problem is that I need to start stockpiling finised models for the 2013 NNGC, which is here in Pasadena. I figure if I enter everything I built from when I started modeling up until then, say about 10 models, I might have a chance at a third place.  ;D


Marc
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

shropshire lad

Third Place ? In your dreams ! You only stand a chance of winning anything if you there are alot of chains and antlers in evidence.

2013? Will that give you enough time to finish anything ? ...Just asking,

   Nick

finescalerr

Now, now, young Nick. That was SO uncalled for. Everybody knows Marc once finished a model. I think it took  six months and was back around 1998. The model did have a chain but no antlers. It won the Westlake Publishing award for "Best Use of Cheese". So go stand in the corner. You have been very naughty. -- Russ

shropshire lad

Quote from: finescalerr on October 31, 2008, 12:44:48 PM
Now, now, young Nick. That was SO uncalled for. Everybody knows Marc once finished a model. I think it took  six months and was back around 1998. The model did have a chain but no antlers. It won the Westlake Publishing award for "Best Use of Cheese". So go stand in the corner. You have been very naughty. -- Russ

  Aw Shucks , Mistah Russ, I is sorry. I dint mean nutting. I was jus joshin' .

  Nick        (admitting to himself that it probably isn't a good idea for a Limey to try and imitate someone from the Deep South, but went ahead and did it anyway)

marc_reusser

#161
Oh fine...if that's the way you guys are going to be :'( :'( ;) ;D....... here is some progress with the first painting steps.

Since the "Color Modulation approch/concept is something new to me (Read:  I haven't a clue of what I am doing), I decided to focus on the frame, and some detail work first so I went through my paints, and pull the colors I thought would work for the process, and for what I envisioned the end result to be. I then began to make a swatch chart of the colors staright from the bottles, and then some mixed colors using different ratios and combinations to get some of the desired/needed colors.



#1, is Vallejo #814 "Cadmium Umber Red", this I decided was going to be the dark starting point for the process, and would in part also double as the "Pre-Shading" step I usually do at this point.

#2, will be the eventual intended "main/primary" color of the frame. (This is a mix of 3 parts #908 "Carmine Red", 1 part #946 "Dark Red", and 1 part #829 "Purpleheart Red")

#3, is sort of an "Old Rust" color I needed for areas where parts had been removed from the loco and the exposed unpainted metal had oxidized over time (This is a mix of 5 parts #814 "Burnt. Cadmium Red", 2 parts #822 German Camo Black-Brown, 2 parts #829 Purpleheart Red)

...and here is the result:






I was only so-so satisfied with the paint finish...it feels a bit "heavier" than I would probably have preferred. It was my first use of the new airbrush, and combined with the Vallejo's proved an interesting learning curve.  :-X ;D


Marc
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

finescalerr

I have only a vague idea of where you are headed with this, Marc, so it will be instructive to see what happens next. Last time you used this approach, I think you were building a tank and I remember how beautiful the finish was.

What is the advantage of Vallejo acrylics in this instance; why do you prefer them? And, as you go along, please explain why you have taken each step. This could be a very useful clinic.

Russ

marc_reusser

#163
Thanks Russ.

I am doing this model as my entry/participation in the MIG Forum "Color Modulation Contest". This is actually a different approach from the tank you are referring to (where I was trying to represent an overpainted old vehicle)......The theory, approach, and an SBS example, of "Color Modulation" can be read/seen here:

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2006

This is actually not that good of a subject for color modulation the way it was intended/conceived, as it has many small parts, and undercuts, (the process works better on vehicles with larger surfaces and planes), however, as this is a new approach & technique for me, I am also hoping to try and see if it can be used/adapted and/or modified to work on something like this. Part of the affect of modulation is the subsequent belnding and transition of the shades, values and colors with filters, washes & weathering.......thus the reason for it working on larger surfaces & planes.....that is not easy or necessarily even that feasable on areas like the Gas Mech frame.

There is a huge chance that thinks will not go the way I planned or hoped......but we will have to see as things progress.  ::)

Up till now, I have primarily been using Tamiya for airbrushing, and the Vallejos for paintbrush work, however for this project I went with the Vallejo paints as they have a much greater and diverse color selection than Tamiya. Vallejo are a wonderful paint...especiall for brushwork, they have very fine pigment, provide great coverage, and go on very smooth. They work well for airbrush also, once you get used to thinning them to the right consistancy, and used to spraying them. (if not careful, they can dry/settle rather quickly in the airbrush workings)....and unlike Tamiya, they are completely water soluble. There is a line of Vallejo called "Model Air", that are specifically made (anc come already prethinned) for use in an airbrush....however, the color selection is not nearly as extensive. [And for those who are thinking of recommending Polly-Scale as a Vallejo option......don't even think of it....Polly-Scale are like kiddie poster-paints in comparison.)

My problem today was getting the right consitancy (it was running to thin/wet, and kept beading on the primer), and getting the feel for the airbrush & trying to get the hang of the settings & adjusments. I had been using a Paasche VL, (double action) previously......Now the new one is an Iwata Highline HP-CH...



...which has a really great feel and some wonderful fine tuning, the detail work and finesse possible is worlds above the VL.......and thus als a whole different animal from the VL...so I should probably have practiced a bit before I started in on this  ::)


I will post SBS pics as I progress. The next step though is back to work on the color chart for the upper portion color(s). I probably won't be spraying again till next weekend.


Marc


(PS. I am trying a sim approach on the Molino Car in the FMW challenge....also shot the base color on it today while I was at it.)

I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

jacq01


   
QuoteThere is a huge chance that thinks will not go the way I planned or hoped......

   Very often the results of these ( partly controlled) efforts  are the best  ;D ;D

   A very nice "clinic" on NEW airbrush use I am following with a lot of interst. My old airbrush(es)
   are in for replacement. Your "show" can have a large influence on my choice.

   Jacq
put brain in gear before putting mouth in action.
never underestimate the stupidity of idiots
I am what I remember.