1/35 Gas Mechanical Bash

[marklayton]

Marc -

I'll second the endorsement on the Iwata - the real-time control is excellent so that, with practice, one can modify the application to suit the particular part of the model being painted at that instant.

But you're a braver man than I to give it a shakedown on a newly minted model!  Scraps from plastic model kits are my usual test track!

Mark

[marc_reusser]

Mark:
I think "brave" is too kind and an overstatement....."impatient" and "reckless", are probably more appropriate.



On the subject of Russ's questiona re. Vallejo colors, for those that are interested, here is a link to an online PDF of color comparisoon charts for the various Vallejo Paints to other Mfrs. as well as prototype color standards (RAL/RLM/FedStd.)....a really extensive 20 or so page reference.

http://www.portaldemodelismo.com/vallejo/documentacion/CatalogoModelismoEquivalencias.pdf

And for those interested in more info about the Vallejo lines and their color charts, here is a link to their home page.

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/

Here is a direct link to the Valljo "Model Color" color chart.

http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_carta.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1&p4=0


Marc

[Franck Tavernier]

Marc,

I use Vallejo paint for a very long time and they are excellent acrylic paint. About thinning, I asked Vallejo directly...

You may dilute Model Color with water, or with a waterbased thinner which is available in the range. The product does not contain any solvents except for the metal paints (alcohol base). Modelcolor is a waterbased emulsion of pigment and acrylic resin (and not a waterbased soluble like Tamiya or Gunze with alcohol), and would not react well with a lacquer thinner or alcohol. Alcohol can be used for special effects, but a priori it's not recommended for just simple thinning the color, no need.

I Use now for a long time a special medium to thin my paint, from Liquitex : the Airbrush medium



http://www.liquitex.com/Products/fluidmedairbrush.cfm

I thin my paint with 50% demineralized water (it's a minimum, add more if necessary, some colors may require more or less water) and adds one or two drops of Liquitex airbrush medium...And I have any problem with my Aztek metal and 0.3 nozzle...Once thinned, your paint must have the consistency of milk.

Franck

[Krusty]

FWIW there were some comments on Missing Links a while ago to the effect that Vallejo cured slightly tougher with its own thinner than when thinned with water. The NZ Vallejo importer doesn't bother with the mediums or thinner (and only brings in a small selection of the colours ) so I have no idea whether this is true or just an internet legend (the updated version of an urban legend).

[marc_reusser]

Franck & Kevin,

Thanks for the input.

I generally always use the Mfr's recommended/supplied thinner.....despite all the options like washer fluid, alcohol, etc. that people may recommend, and say works...... I just generally feel/find iteliminates one source of potential trouble/problems in the painting and following weathering process.......The most I do is occasionally use lacquer thinner for some paints and techniques...and for final cleaning of the airbrush.

I did use the Vallejo thinner...but it was still a bit too thick in consistancy, so I added a few additional drops of filtered water....but it still was acting oddly......the problem was probably just airbrush operator error. 

The Vallejo thinner is probably similar to the liquitex material....it looks as if it were simply the carrier solution, sans the pigment.

Marc

[Franck Tavernier]

The Vallejo thinner is probably similar to the liquitex material....it looks as if it were simply the carrier solution, sans the pigment.

You are right! It's exactly the same material (and the Liquitex is less expensive  )! But I don't use only the Liquitex or Vallejo to thin my paint, and add demineralized water (distiled water would be better, but more expensive too, and I didn't find difference between the two) because this material can give a glossed appearance to the paint...

[marc_reusser]

A bit of a step backward.....

I just couldn't stomach the paint finish....so last night I soaked the frame in Iso Alc. & stripped it.......today it is back wit a new light coat of Mr Surfacer resin primer.




Marc

[TrevorCreek]

Marc,

I just compared this photo with the one of the frame painted, it is amazing how much detail was hidden.  I am sure you will do a terrific job with it now.

Frank

[FSMMODELER]

Marc,

Another tip with airbrushing vallejo paints. First make a mixture of 40% water and 60% air brush thinner (vallejo, liquitex, etc) in your paint cup and then add paint drops until the preferred consistancy, (milk). You may be doing this already and if so forgive my ignorance. Hope this helps.

Scott

[marc_reusser]

Scott,

Thanks for the tip......I actually have not tried it in that manner...I tended to mix paint and thinner...then add water; so that could be contributing to the issues I was having.


Marc

[lab-dad]

So are we going with the same color(s) or a different scheme?
That previous color/finish left a lot to be desired...........

-Marty

[Franck Tavernier]

Marc,

After your primer coat, why don't you do a pre-shading?

Try several fine layers for the base coat color...! Add depth to the base coat color with the Hightlighting and shading technics... 

And after, filters, pin washs, etc...

Franck

[marc_reusser]

Marty,

Yep we are going to go with that color again.    There will not me that much of it noticeable in the end once the other color shades are aplied, and the filters, washes, fading and other weathering is applied.


Franck,

The method you suggest is my "usual" approach.....the modulation though seem to call for full coat.......but this time around I am going to do a combination of the two, and use the previos color in more of a "Pre-shade" application.

Having to start over also gave me the opportunity to rethink the approach to some of the details/painting sequence. This time around I am using Gum Arabic to mask the sections of the L-angle that is holding the cab walls to the deck, and the lever part of the brake lever, so I can later more easily spray them the green color. I have also decided to do/incorporate some of the hairspray chipping technique for the areas of heavy wear on the interior of the cab, back of the transmission, and around the coupler area.....so I need to lay down a dark grey and slightly oxidized color in those areas first. (then hairspray, then the "ugly red", and lastly the final color).


Marc

[marc_reusser]

Before applying color this time, I decided to use brush apply Tamiya "Nato Black" into the radiator grille slits, into the recesses for the radiator and fuel fillir cap locations, into the stack hole, and into the top of the open sanding box. I used Nato black for this, as it is more of a dark grey, than a coomplete black...this makes the end appearance less jarring, and more in "scale".

This was followed by a brush application of Vallejo #862 "Black Grey", into the openings at the link-and-pin couplers.

Lastly came an airbrush application of #862 around the outside of the couplers, on the bak and sides of the transmission housing, on the floor of the cab, and on the top of the driver seat area.


.....then back to the color chart...

This shows the three color combiation I was thinking of for the upper portion of the loco. [The yellow splatter is what happens when the Vallejo bottle tip clogs up...you squeeze too hard...and the entire tip explodes off!  ...I am still finding splatter in my work area.    )




A view with the rear wall removed, showing the Dark Grey areas:




And the rest of the views showing the application of the first colors. This time on the red, I decided to just use straight Vallejo #814 "Cadmium Umber Red", rather than the previous mixed color, as it will make for darker shading.









Marc

[lab-dad]

I see said the blind man.
I think I am starting to learn more on this "modulation" thing.
I also think I am tonal challenged, kind of like color blind.
Looks much better, keep the sbs coming.
-Marty