1/35 Gas Mechanical Bash

[finescalerr]

Not bad. Not bad at all, especially at this stage. -- Russ

[marc_reusser]

Had some time to paint today.

The next paint step was to apply a mix of 3-parts #908 "Carmine Red", 1-part #829 "Purpleheart Red", and  1-part  #946 "Dark Red" , applying it so that it hit primarily the top and faces of the projecting parts, leaving the deeper areas, and areas that would be in shadow, in the base color.

Once dry, 1-part #918 "Ivory" was added to the above mix, and applied/shaded onto some of the furthest projecting faces, as well as top surfaces.









Lastly some of the projecting top edges, surfaces, and details were picked out using a 10/0 brush applying a mix of 1-part #829 "Purpleheart", with 1-part #944 "Old Rose" Note also that the areas previously masked with Gum Arabic have been exposed.



On the bonnet and cab sections, I felt some of the underside and lower areas needed a deeper color, or have a more "shadowed" appearance. For this a mix of 2-parts #904 "Dark Blue Grey", 1-part #862 "Black Grey", and 1-part #979 "German Camo Dark Green", was used.







This was followed by an application of Tamiya XF-12.






....hopefully some more tomorrow.

Marc

[finescalerr]

Okay, so it looks terrific. We all expected that. But how did you hold the model in one hand, the airbrush in the other, and the camera in yet another? Now THAT takes TALENT! -- Russ

[shropshire lad]

That was my question . I suppose the airbrush was on a stand , the camera was on a tripod and the hand was attached to a dummy !  Ha , Ha ,

  Nick

[Franck Tavernier]

Nice color modulation Marc

The Tamiya XF 12 is good choice!   

Franck

[marc_reusser]

The third hand is so I can give myself complimentary pats on the back (among other things ) while I am working.

Frank...I think I have 6 jars of it....I keep buying it by accident every time I'm out getting paints 

Today was an absolute f***ing nightmare......I was truly ready to hurl the model against a wall.

I worked on painting the upper portion...and just couldn't get it right.....first the modulatuon was to weak, then to strong, then too weak again!!!!......and to make it worse....it looks different in different light sources, or even just from different angles!!!

....I just had to STOP!....otherwise I was going to loose it...and after 4 layers of paint I was going to start losing detail sharpness.

I will post some pics as soon as I download them, and run them through PS.


Marc

[marc_reusser]

....so here we go on toadays progress/fiasco.

The first step was to mask off the areas on the rear bulkhed that were to remain rust, and the 'L' Angle parts that will recieve the upper color.



Once the 'L angles were masked, they received a quick brush application of #904 "Dark Blue Grey" (once dry this was then lightly sprayed from directly above with XF-12)



The Bonnet section and the rear bulkhead were then sprayed from above at a slight angle, with a mix of 4-parts XF-12, and 1-part XF-1 "White" to accentuate the light modulation.

Once dry a 50/50 mix of Vallejo #971 "Green Grey", and #918 "Ivory" was brush applied to the top edges of the bulkheads, tops of handles & wing-nuts, bolts on transmission, levers, gauge drip guard.....and various other detail surfaces/edges.




....and this is now where the project is at.  I think I will call this phase done, and move on. I will try to add and accentute the modulation on the upper portions a bit more, during the application of the "filters".










Marc

[finescalerr]

Any normal human would be pleased with those results. -- Russ

[lab-dad]

Great article, including the frustration.
Glad you didnt hurl it.
I tried some modulation on the front wall of the photo shop.......
Will see if I learned anything.
-Marty

[TRAINS1941]

Marc

Excellent how to-do-it, without hurling it onto the wall.  Glad you didn't.
Beautiful air brushing and coloring.

Jerry

[marc_reusser]

After the application of Red, yellow and blue filters, using Windsor Newton artists oils, as well as some panel fading using white artists oils.

I was also able to accentuate the modulation a slight bit, by the manner/direction in which the filters were aplied and layered. I did not "weep" the linseed oil from the Artists oils before applying the filters, as I wanted them to provide/leave a satin finish when dry....thus giving me a more realistic painted metal appearance, as well as providing contrast for the coming weathering steps.

In between waiting for the filters to dry I also started doing the chipping inside the cab area, as well as the handles on the bonnet.










Marc

[lab-dad]

Looking much better!
Glad you are doing this SBS just ahead of me!
What is the preferred "sealer" over oils?
-Marty

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Marty.

I generally never use sealer, though I am considering using the Vallejo "Satin" clear, on this. Not sure yet.

The other option would be the satin finish from ModelMaster (the petroleum based one, not the acrylic one).

Regardless, I am going to let the filters dry for a week or so before applying the sealer, if I do.


Marc

[henrix72se]

WOW, I am amazed! 

Looks like a dream.

/Henrik

[finescalerr]

I have seen that little model up close, in person. It is a truly spectacular work of art, only about two inches long! Marc's photos show it pretty accurately and it is so tiny you really do need a macro lens or magnifying glass to appreciate its full elegance. -- Russ