1/35 Gas Mechanical Bash

[Franck Tavernier]

Russ, you're right, small loudspeakers embedded in locos don't pass low frequencies!

Otto Schouwstra makes a system with full size speakers below the layout for his Terra Cotta, scale 1:87 (HOf)....It seems to me that this is Digitrax has developed a system transponding:

http://www.digitrax.com/static/apps/products/detection-signaling/bdl168/documents/transponding%20bdl16xrx4%20app%20note_1.pdf

Franck

[finescalerr]

Otto is no idiot. I would think anything he designs would be worth considering. -- Russ

[mad gerald]

... but unfortunately Otto ended the production of sound systems in February 2013 ...
http://www.ossynths.nl/about-ossynths

Cheers

[Franck Tavernier]

Oh no, Otto is not an idiot!!!

He built many superb models, pieces of jewelery, innovative still, it has also convinced me to use his belt drives system...

His sound system is excellent, but the DCC has its appararition and he has also health problems, he is now a little over 70 years olds...

Franck

[marc_reusser]

Too damp and cold to paint today, so just messed around with all sorts of other parts ion this project.

Small details were added to the bonnet:

Stack is styrene rod tipainted with LifeColor Rust shades and mottled with some MIG & AK Pigments. Stack cover was made from a 1/32 scale car hub-cap, painted with Tamiya "Titanium", given a thinned wash of Vallejo dark grey acrylic, and a final wash of LifeColor "White Oxide".

Light bulb was made from clear plastic sprue, and light lens was cut from slide cover glass (still needs some weathering)




I think I will be needeing a base for this project, so I took one of my old bases, stripped it down to the foam, and slightly re-contoured it.




The base was then given a sealer/base coating of tinted and thinned, Liquitex 'Modeling Paste'.




While the base dried, I made some pressed metal sleepers for the sectional track.

Sleepers were made using .005" aluminum from the bottom of a cheap grocery store roasting pan, and formed to shape using a press I cobbled together using scrap strip and sheet styrene.

Finished sleepers can be seen at right. These will be bead or baking-soda blasted to slightly roughen the surface, and then primered and painted.

[Franck Tavernier]

Nice job Mark!

I see much better now the "green look" of the bonnet paint! It look so good...

I also like the detailing parts, air filter, and the light!

About pressed metal sleepers, did you try your system with plasticard? I am interested by the same technique, but with an insulating material, which would make the train ride on the track ... and pick-up the current on track.

Nick and Bernard's radio control system would be also a good solution to get rid of current by the track with real metal sleepers like yours!

Franck

[marc_reusser]

Thank you Franck.

I should probably have done these in brass, or copper sheet, that way I could have solderd them to the rails (Luckily since I only build static models, I dont have to worry about the power issue). No I have not tried the sleeprs with plastic...dont see how I could form them in a plastic form...maybe in an aluminum press that can be heated. I have used paper soaked in matte medium in this form, and it worked well. I have also rapid-prototyped about 5 sleepers, and that worked well also.


The thing I find most important with pressed metal sleepers, is that they are of scale thickness at the edge,....yes, there are styles that have bent down or radiused closed ends,....but I absolutely cannot stand when people try to represent pressed metal sleepres with solid blocks that only have a groove in the top....it doesn't fool anyone, and just looks like a toy. The ones that I did in resin via RP were solid, except the last 6-8 scale inches on each end, that way they were still stiff and sturdy, had good surface to glue them down, and could be drilled for spiking.

[Franck Tavernier]

Thank you Franck.

I should probably have done these in brass, or copper sheet, that way I could have solderd them to the rails (Luckily since I only build static models, I dont have to worry about the power issue). No I have not tried the sleeprs with plastic...dont see how I could form them in a plastic form...maybe in an aluminum press that can be heated. I have used paper soaked in matte medium in this form, and it worked well. I have also rapid-prototyped about 5 sleepers, and that worked well also.

Sure, static models solves the problem! About plastic, I had the same idea, an (milled?) aluminum press and slightly heat the plastic with a hair dryer ...Your solution with paper soaked in matte medium is too a good idea, german modellers build skip dump car with cardboard and it works perfectly!

The thing I find most important with pressed metal sleepers, is that they are of scale thickness at the edge,....yes, there are styles that have bent down or radiused closed ends,....but I absolutely cannot stand when people try to represent pressed metal sleepres with solid blocks that only have a groove in the top....it doesn't fool anyone, and just looks like a toy. The ones that I did in resin via RP were solid, except the last 6-8 scale inches on each end, that way they were still stiff and sturdy, had good surface to glue them down, and could be drilled for spiking.

Hmm I quite agree with that, and you know that I am very exigent about respect for sheet thicknesses to scale! This is one of my techniques that I have used for many years on my models ...

Franck

[Design-HSB]

Hi, I use long been etched and embossed sleepers.
I stick to the insulation with adhesive quickly through a thin strip of paper under the rail profile.

Roof emerging as etching part.


Connection via clamping plate with bolts and nuts M 0.6, naturally electrically insulated.


Roof sleeper track from below.


Roof sleeper track for size comparison with a coin.


(Locked) lock for swing grooves on stage threshold.


Lock for swing stage (unlocked)


Schwenkebühne with aging and etched and embossed channels threshold.

All material nickel silver is emerging as this material is particularly suitable for this.

[Franck Tavernier]

Beautiful job!

What scale? Of?

Good idea the insulation under the bottom of the rail!

Franck

[finescalerr]

Outstanding. Marc earns the Chuck Doan Perfection Award for vehicle modeling. Helmut already has earned the Westlake Publishing Meticulous Craftsmanship Award. Altogether  not a bad display of prowess. -- Russ

[Design-HSB]

Hi all,

I'm generally really only in scale 1:22,5.
This light railway or mining railroad track, the track width of 26.7 mm size = IIf.

Twice as large as that used by me but 0f method is safe to use even in 0f.

Russ, thanks for the compliment.

[Franck Tavernier]

Thanks Helmut !

I'm in 1:35 scale, 50cm gauge, 14.3mm...it seems that your solution will lead me to 1:35 scale, the 12 labors of Hercules ...

Seriously, we can imagine a pressed metal sleepers such as Mark with a clip and a plastic bolt and the rail on a small piece of insulation such as double-sided tape!

Franck

[marc_reusser]

Abslutely beautiful work Helmut.

One could frobably do the tie profile that helmut is using, in 1/35, by using laser cut resin impregnated paper.....like what Vectorcut uses (hmmmm...may have to give him a call)....they could be prescored at the bend lines, then just bent using a PE tool......he could probably even pre-cut an indexed stiffening/filler piece out of thicker stock, that would fit in the correct place under the tie, so that the rails could be spiked through. With lsaer cutting, if the gauge and approx rail sixe were known, one gould have small holes pre-cut through both pieces to make spiking easier and lessen any deformation of the tie when spiking. These holes would also serve as the indexing for the filler piece, to keep it away from the edge of the tie profile.

[marc_reusser]

If one we're not worriedbout power transmission (IE radio Control), PE brass like Helmut would be the way to go in 1/35. The initial breaks/bends could quickly be done in a PE folding tool, and then the pice could be placed into a two part form, to quickly and easily give it the proper final shape/angles at the bend.

I just last week purchased some PE marston matting (those perforated steel runners that can be interlocked for use in sand).....and they are intended to be done/formed in this exact manner.