1/35 Gas Mechanical Bash

[marc_reusser]

Sorry for the delayed reply. Been a bit hectic.

thanks all for the kind words.

Kevin: The latches are from one of the wing-nut sets. I did though add a square PE piece from an Aber set behind each one.

Dan: The ability to see the styrene over the resin is neat....I too enjoy seeing it...probably the only part of working with resin I enjoy  .

Marty:   Get your resin & spincaster ready.....I'll send it right over   No Mexicano for this one......If it turns out okay, and I decide to keep her, she may end up in a polish potato field dio....or some kind of Czech factory scene  .....

Jerry:  Don't blame me for the forum coming alive...I think that's all Dan & Francks fault.   I hope Marty gives you that kick soon...look forward to seeing your work. I hope Marty gets his butt in gear and starts posting some of his stuff here also!

Frank:  Thanks....I too am curious (and anxious/nervous) about how the paint/finish will turn out.

Russ:  Though you have a valid point, and I agree it would almost always result in a better project.....the problem is that if I didn't have a base/something to start with that peaked my curiosity/made me think, I would probably not get the project off the ground. I enjoy the challenge of seeing what can be done with something.


Franck:   Wow...the loco is beautiful! (but then that is expected )....I too think the glue problem created a good effect of metal fatige and wear. I look forward to your painting progress on this one. And if you keep this up with these locos of your's, I'm just goint to have to quit working on mine....because, what's the use



AND NOW... the public opinion portion of the post:

Which cab front wall do you guys like better...'A' or 'B' ? (or do you have another idea/suggestion)

Wall 'A':




Wall 'B'




Marc

[Franck Tavernier]

Hi Marc, I prefer the wall "A" 

The painting operations are finished since last week...

[danpickard]

Marc,
I think I'd lean with option A as well.  Only because I figure these type of loco's are kind of basic little work horses, and perhaps the cut in grab handles may have been a bit too fancy at the time, unless the manufacturers were providing the sports option when released 

Franck,
I really like the fade of the green and the rusted wear along the hard edges.  It looks like it would still have a few miles left in her, rather than being just about ready to go out to pasture.  Handy little starting points them magic trains.

Dan

[TRAINS1941]

Marc,

I would go with A also.

Jerry

[finescalerr]

Nice paint job, Franck! -- Russ

[Krusty]

Marc: What everyone else said. I've seen arrangements like B on gear made in the last few years, but not on 'traditional' locomotives.

Franck: That paint job is superb. Really captures the character of a working locomotive.

[marc_reusser]

Wall 'A'!!!???....oh man, you guys are killing me!........cr**...I know you're right....but c'mon....'B' is so much more interesting.

...qou guys do realize that there will not be a rolled edge on the walls like on Francks locos....the Jenbachs had just stright plate steel.

....Ok...so say I go with 'A'....di I need to add a grab handle on the interior side of the front wall?....maybe it could be done to represent a "field/shop modification"?


Marc

[danpickard]

Marc,
I was nearly going to suggest a possible grab handle on the inside face of the wall, but then I was thinking that by leaving the plain wall there would invite you to put a few more paint chips and greasy hand marks and wear on the corner, right were the guy with the high pants and what almost looks like platform shoes would grab hold as he pulls himself into the drivers seat.  Safety chain across the cab entry maybe??

Dan

[LeOn3]

Marc,

Why not using a bit of both? On one site the iron hand-held and on the other site a driverseat, like used on O&K loco's.

[Krusty]

Marc: Given that the real thing rarely, if ever, had just a vestigial flat cab front plate such as you're proposing (and without a beading or angle around the edge it would get badly knocked around), you're into the realm of what looks good/plausible rather than strict fidelity to full size. I'd suggest a couple of simple handgrip 'ears' welded or rivetted on each side, kinda sorta like this sketch.

[Franck Tavernier]

An idea to consider:

As I look at the work of modelers on this site (and others) and contrast that with the quality of some of the kits they are "bashing", I wonder why they don't simply scratchbuild the whole thing. Then everything could be as perfect and accurate as their own handiwork.
Personally, I have rarely been satisfied with the result when I modified a commercial model because its inherent imperfections or inaccuracies remain. What's more, I seem to spend as much time reworking lousy commercial stuff as I would spend designing and building a superior model myself.
Russ

Russ,

I've spent time in the past to scratchbuild superior model myself like this Deutz OMZ 117...













But scratchbuilding every thing for a superior model is a real "time consumer", and I have less and less time for modelling...

Now I want to do more funny models, freelance, and with a commercial model or commercial parts, you save a lot of time!

[lab-dad]

Franck,
That is absolutely a stunning piece of jewelry!!!!!!!
OUTSTANDING!!!!!
I even love the color.
Having just done something similar, but not as nice I understand.
I would love to hear more about this little jewels construction though.
-Marty

[TrevorCreek]

Franck,

Outstanding as usual.  Do you have any additional pics of the engine in this pic.

http://public.fotki.com/FranckTavernier/painting-techniques/photo1.html

It is the blue one on the right.

Frank

[finescalerr]

Absolutely superb, Franck. -- Russ

[Franck Tavernier]

Guy's thanks, for the kind words!

@ Marty,

About the model...It's a Deutz OMZ 117. This model is entirely built in brass and phosphorous bronze sheet. On this model there are only two  photoetched parts : The builder plate and the radiator grid...All the thicknesses of metal sheets visible on this model are thus exactly to scale, without any exception! For example, all sheets having 5mm thicknesses in reality, have a thickness of .15mm in 1:35 scale! Yes, I'm crazy!

The gearbox, coupling rods, brake lever, reversing lever, seat, were hand built! All this parts are strictly in 1:35 scale, with no concession being made...The rivets are brass rivets...Nuts are real brass nuts or casting nuts...

My model is equipped with an internal chassis frame. Construction is traditionnal, using hexagonal brass spacer assemblies with brass side frame of .8mm thick...For this model I choose, like my Gmeinder, the most wonderful of coreless gearheadmotors, a Faulhaber 2020D 215:1...Placed vertically, it drove the front axle through a 1:1 skew gear set (brass gear mod. 0.3 from a French craftsman)...The power is transmitted to the rear axle via the coupling rods...It ran very smoothly...The frame is of course equipped with a full equalization system. I made a cradle beam, wich is simply articulated on a upper horizontal shaft fixed in two hexagonal brass spacer, wich allows the axle to rock easily between the side frames...

The wheels were bought from UltraScale a British craftsman but I will change them for a hand built wheels in brass and nickel silver...

@ Frank,

Additionnal pics are here :

http://public.fotki.com/FranckTavernier/135-scale-german-ga/

The blue gas loco on the right is a kit from Smoky Bottom Lumber Co...modified...