Wooden ore cars

[Hauk]

Hauk,

your post processed items don't give any room for improvement. Even the surface looks good to me assuming the cars won't be presented in delivery appearance ...

Volker

The cars was built in 1908, and I model the railroad as it was in the 30´s. Thats at least 22 years of hard service, so the suface on the castings is probably more than smooth enough!

[Hydrostat]

The cars was built in 1908, and I model the railroad as it was in the 30´s. Thats at least 22 years of hard service, so the suface on the castings is probably more than smooth enough!

Yep! I'm really looking forward to see them blackened and assembled to the wooden parts!

Volker

[Oystein LB]

Looks like the toolmaking department needs to speed up to keep ut the phase! Picture wil come when i the mystery tool is done.

[Hauk]

First coloring tests have been completed. This is just a test setup, the wooden planks will not actually be used in any model)

The wood parts have been treated with full-strength Silverwood, after this dried the "outside" of the planks were stained with a 50/50 mix of Humbrol 70 and 153. The paint was thinned with about 50% White spirit.

The metal parts were dunked in Birchwood Casey that was diluted around 1:100. I left the parts in the chemicals for a couple of days. It is important to rinse the blackened parts well and to scrub them with hot water & baking soda to completely stop the blackening process.  

I am quite happy with the results. The wood grain is more visible than on the delivery photos of the prototype car, but my models are supposed to show more than 25 years of hard use, so I would guess the more worn look is appropriate. And this is the way I like my models to look: Real wood and metal that show their true character.







Feel free to comment & criticise! This is as I mentioned just a test, so improvements are still possible!

[Sami]

Nice job !

[finescalerr]

Will the exterior wood really be that reddish color? -- Russ

[Hauk]

Will the exterior wood really be that reddish color? -- Russ

The jury is out on that one.
Most likely the prototype was painted a red based on iron oxide as pigment. This means a paint that is pretty bright.

Here are an example of a norwegian barn most likely painted with paint based on iron oxide:



It is rather  old and weathered, but the red is still pretty bright. And since it is an modest barn, it is probably not painted with a very expensive paint.

I think you could call this color "Norwegian Boxcar Red", as it was a very common paint used on simple buildings and equipment.

But all that said, I am not 100% sure about the color myself. I have posted the images on some norwegian forums for real railroads, and I am eager to hear what people working with 1:1 historical railroad material thinks about the color.

[TRAINS1941]

I really like that color.  But then I love the color red.

Jerry

[Hydrostat]

Hauk,

I can't say anything about the color, but comparing your results with the both b&w pictures from your firts post the color surface needs to be smoother for my opinion. This looks like the planks have nearly lost their color, but at the prototype pics it rather looks like again and again painted planks whit a clearly visible color application.

And this is the way I like my models to look: Real wood and metal that show their true character.

No doubt. The brass came out all over fantastic.

Volker

[Ray Dunakin]

The brass is amazing. Can't see any sign of the printing process.

[finescalerr]

Yes, as Ray and Volker say, the brass parts are excellent.

I have no criticism of the shade of red because I have no idea what color the original cars might have been. I would suggest, though, that you use opaque paint rather than stain to color the cars. Can you do what Chuck does -- peeling paint over stained wood -- or something that will look like that? A couple of years ago I tried to follow his directions but was unable to duplicate his results. (I hope to try again soon.) You are better at that than I am and might have better luck, whether on wood or plastic.

Because you are so skillful, your cars have the potential to be superb. I will watch your progress carefully. I think you will inspire us.

Russ

[Hauk]

Yes, as Ray and Volker say, the brass parts are excellent.

I have no criticism of the shade of red because I have no idea what color the original cars might have been. I would suggest, though, that you use opaque paint rather than stain to color the cars. Can you do what Chuck does -- peeling paint over stained wood -- or something that will look like that?

Yes, I have tried the method with mixed results.  I think I will try again. It could be the way to proceed with the ore cars. The Black and White photos indicates a rather smooth finish, so an opaque paint layer might be a better starting point for weathering and distressing the cars. I will try to study other pictures to see if I can get hints on how the cars have weathered.

[Design-HSB]

Hello Hauk,
Unfortunately I get from any of my computers pictures of you displayed.

Instead, always www.folk-rovere.org the object can not be found.

[Hauk]

Hello Hauk,
Unfortunately I get from any of my computers pictures of you displayed.

Instead, always www.folk-rovere.org the object can not be found.

That is weird, from what I can see all pictures are still on the server.
Anybody else that can not see the images?

Please let me know if the images are invisible!

Hoping that the images are visible, here is an update on preparing the parts. I got a packet of 0,35mm and 0,4mm drill bits today, and started drilling the holes for the pins and hinges.

Unfortunately, it is *much* harder to drill the holes than I tought! I think this is a combination of that the brass in the castings is very hard and the drills (surprise, surprise) are very thin.

So I have been breaking drill bits at an alarming rate, and progress have been slow. But it *is* possible to drill the holes, it just takes a lot of patience and drill bits.

You would think that drilling holes is a rather simple task, but it takes practice to do rather delicate work like this.  

At least I have confirmation that the concept for the hinges will work fine. Before soldering the hinge pin I will blacken the longest part of the hinge after drilling the hole for the pin. The solder will not stick to blackened brass, and the plan is that this way the hinge will be working after soldering.



Another millimeter post on the way to a completed string of ore cars!

[Juke Joint]

Awesome Hauk! How thick is the hinge pin wire?