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Tank 116 - Lotsa Rivets

Started by Geoff Ringle, March 13, 2014, 02:36:32 PM

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Hydrostat

Geoff,

your modeling looks very crisp and clean. Especially the complete air hose components are inspiring. Is it cast nickel silver? Would you mind to tell a bit about how you made them? Via prototyping or manual master forms?

Thanks and cheers,
Volker
I'll make it. If I have to fly the five feet like a birdie.
I'll fly it. I'll make it.

The comprehensive book about my work: "Vollendete Baukunst"

SandiaPaul

I too would like to know about the castings...


Thanks,

Paul
Paul


Geoff Ringle

When making parts I often make them the same way they were made in 1:1
If a part was cast I'll look at making a casting, if it was a stamped part I'll try to stamp it, if it was blacksmithed I'll fabricate it.

-The pole pockets are brass castings made from my hand built master

-The Carmer style uncoupling levers are "blacksmithed" for each car, as the pivot point, hanger and coupler offset varies from car type to car type.  This one is the easiest version as it is straight in elevation and plan view.

-The stake pockets are made from a stamping, just like the real deal.

-The railing stanchions are fabricated.  Rather than rolling the end of the angle iron around the hand rail I soldered on a tube to create the illusion.  If I move past the study model  and make a small run of these cars I'll make a fixture to aid bending, shaping and rolling the end of the brass angle. 

- For the magnetic ProtoHands, anglecocks and hose clamps my needs alone justified 3D rapid prototyping to prepare masters for nickel-silver investment castings.   My friend and associate Terry Van Winkle modeled the components in Solidworks and printed resin parts for design and engineering review.  His professional speciality is 3D design and printing and a segment of his business is jewelry design for the high fashion industry. For my production needs,  the finalized STL files were printed in high res wax and invested to create the metal masters for molding. 

The end products are durable nickel-sliver parts that can soldered.  The nickel castings can be blackened or painted.  In either case, I prefer the nickel over a brass casting because chips in the finish and/or wear and tear show as a silver metal.

More to come on this subject as Terry is developing the 3-D model for the tank dome.

Geoff Ringle


Ray Dunakin

Really amazing work!

When you stamp the stake pockets, do you just press the dies together in a vice, or do you tap it with a hammer?

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Chuck Doan

"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

Geoff Ringle

Ray,  The first step is to anneal the brass blanks.  The part is "stamped" with a small arbor press.  Takes a little work to pull the fixture apart afterwards then the stamping gets trimmed and drilled.  I probably shouldn't use the word stamping as it gives the impression that these things just pop out .....bam,bam,bam.....

Geoff Ringle

Here is Terry's rendering of the dome. 

Geoff Ringle

The parts are printed individually (dome, vent & screw on lid).
I'll set up for better quality shots when the dome is riveted to the tank.

Hydrostat

Geoff, thanks for your explanation. The printed master forms and the castings seem to have a very high quality.

Volker
I'll make it. If I have to fly the five feet like a birdie.
I'll fly it. I'll make it.

The comprehensive book about my work: "Vollendete Baukunst"

Chuck Doan

Where are you getting the printing done?
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

Geoff Ringle

The dome parts are printed photopolymer by Terry Van Winkle on a 3D Systems Pro Jet (similar to the process that shapeways uses).  Terry brings a lot to the party... his 3D design experience, hands on printing experience, modeling background & understanding of the finescale modeler's needs.    For 3D printing services you can contact Terry here: trvw@earthlink.net

Geoff
oldirondesigns.com

finescalerr

How much printed parts cleanup is necessary? -- Russ

Geoff Ringle

#29
Very clean parts.  The lid & vent are untouched.  The dome has been cleaned up, which was easy because the part was printed with holes for the rivets.  Any surface cleanup around printed rivets would have been impossibly hard.

I just thought I would add that resolution (print thickness) is .001 inch.    Also, Terry takes extra care when removing the carrier/support material from the part.  I'm not sure that the .012 thick dome flange would have made it through a production job shop.  When you are pushing limits or exceeding the capabilities of a job shop printer Terry's service may be of value.