No title yet, but it's a boat

[Chuck Doan]

Looking good Gordon!

[michael mott]

Any further work on this little puppy Gordon?

Michael

[Gordon Ferguson]

Hi Michael, great to to see you back and with another new beautiful boat.

On this one, no the boats has had little or no work done on it , although been experimenting with different techniques for the water for the final dio ........  Think this technique I will be going on with! it's meant to represent a wind rippled water in a canal setting canal




p.s. The water base is just resting against the wall, hence the "slope" on the water 

[michael mott]

What I really like about the picture Gordon is the subtle transparency at the wall, this is the trickiest aspect of this sort of diorama, getting the water to have just the right amount so that it has a sense of real depth, enough solids in the water as in reality to allow a little penetration, (of light) and the gradual change from more transparent to less as the water gets deeper.

Michael

[Barney]

very nice - how was the wall done
Barney

[finescalerr]

Methinks you have achieved penultimate success. -- Russ

[Gordon Ferguson]

Barney, the wall is just plastic card ,40thou, with the mortar grooves cut with one of those Olaf cutters

[Ray Dunakin]

Excellent work on both the wall and the water.

[Design-HSB]

I would like to express my highest appreciation for this work.
But what interested me, as you have made the water?

[Peter_T1958]

But what interested me, as you have made the water?

I am very interested too! That water looks spectacular!

Cheers, Peter

[Gordon Ferguson]

Here is a link to information on the water , I don't think it's a closed forum so non-members should be able to see it OK.( if not I will cut & paste)

This guy is an artist and it shows , worth looking through his other builds and "seas"

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=158909&p=651903#p651903

I used his exact technique , painting on the "eye" shape with medium , then after all the shapes are done giving the whole piece about 10 coats of of the medium. Then applied paint , used an airbrush for this to feather out the colours ..... I used a dark slate grey, gradually adding an olive drab colour before ghosting on a lighter green at canal wall interface.
Then it just about applying the Liquitex glaze , again on this piece I did about 10 coats .... It dries quickly so you can get 3 or 4 coats on in a day
It's an relatively easy technique , but like all things worth practicing with ...... I did a about a dozen small test pieces before I started to understand the technique properly....... I think ?

The only thing I would add is that when painting the "eye" shape don't do the modellers technique of brush painting by starting at one end and going to the other ........ You want the eye shape to taper off at either end so placing the medium/brush in the centre of where you want the shape to be and working out to either end is the way to go .

Oh, and as he says don't repeat don't go back to fiddle with a shape until the medium is dry, you'll get wrinkles and all sorts of issues which will be difficult to correct ....... Easy to fix anything if you allow medium to dry first !

[michael mott]

Thanks for the link and the additional info Gordon.

Michael

[Peter_T1958]

Gordon, thank you very much for your response. The way it looks - and it looks marvelous - I almost had feared that it might be the "Flodberg technique".
Why feared? That  technique seems to be THE choice when a water surface hits a wall or a ship's hull. If you want to create a slow sloping riverbed (and that's what I am looking for), then I have to use a different technique.
Hmmm ... it's a pity! Your wind rippled water is exactly what I am searching for.

Looking forward to your next update!
Peter

[Hydrostat]

Gordon, you nailed it, somehow  .

Cheers,
Volker

[Gordon Ferguson]

Peter, I am most probably not understanding your issue properly because I don't really see why this technique could not be used to simulate a slow moving river .

If I remember my geography classes, it was a long time a go!, a slow moving or meandering river could have a drop or gradient of less than 50 metres over a distance of 10 to 15 kilometres.

Now I have no intention of doing the "maths" but in model form you could be talking even in maximum terms of  a 10mm drop over a 1 metre length...... Hardly noticeable

So if it was me I would cut out my shape of the river , add the ripples as per the article ..... In most cases the ripples would be right angles to banks, if you have curves in your river more ripples on outside of bend fewer and in some spots none on inside. Do all the medium coats and then glazes and fix base in place , propping up one end by 10mm