Designing a shadowbox diorama

[Ray Dunakin]

Ray, one thing you could do is to hire a laser cutting guy. If you can draw the part in an illustration or photo editing program, many lasers can cut from a JPEG. -- Russ

Can a laser cutter do sheet brass?

[Design-HSB]

Ray, for every processing of plate material there are optimal and less optimal methods. It always depends on what you want to achieve in the end result.
1. In etching technique, you can also educate structures in the surface by processing 2 pages.
2. Laser very dependent on the power, how thick the material may be. Mainly contours are possible and only minimal structures of the surface, such as .B. wall joints. The disadvantage of metal is a small degree caused by burning.
3. Waterjet cutting here much larger material thicknesses are also possible in metal. However, this is limited to contours. Disadvantage the cutting edge is rough and has to be partially reworked.
4. CNC flatbed milling with it everything is actually possible and with fitting holes also the machining from both sides. Disadvantage minimal breaking of the burr that can occur during milling. Advantage Structures are possible on both sides.

For all this, a vector sign program such as e.B. CorelDRAW is optimal.

[Bernhard]

Hauk
There are two ways to create more plasticity in etched parts:
- Build up from several layers.
- Symmetrical etching from both sides of the sheet. This requires separate etching films for front and back. Black surfaces are not etched. White areas on one side are removed up to half the thickness of the material. White areas on both sides are etched through.

Ray:
Brass is difficult to laser cut because reflections from the material can damage the laser optics. It is better to use nickel silver as an alternative.

Bernhard

[finescalerr]

What if you were to laser cut a stiff, strong paper like Strathmore Bristol Plate? The single "ply" thickness is 0.006" and it goes up to five ply (0.030"). Might that serve as an alternative to etched metal? If it's too flexible, you may brush on acrylic lacquer to make any paper about as stiff as styrene. -- Russ

[Hauk]

Hauk
There are two ways to create more plasticity in etched parts:
- Build up from several layers.
- Symmetrical etching from both sides of the sheet. This requires separate etching films for front and back. Black surfaces are not etched. White areas on one side are removed up to half the thickness of the material. White areas on both sides are etched through.

PPD Ltd. that does my etchings do indeed use two-sided etchings.
So I design all my etching artwork in two layers, one for the back and one for the front. This also allows for relief effects like raised rivets, folding lines etc.

Regarding multiple layers for building up mass I can clearly see that it has it uses, but for the windows I will settle for the 0,6 thick version of the windows.

When it comes for using lasercut paper/cardboard for the windows, I am for better or worse too attached to my "Philosophy" of using a modelling material that is as close to the prototype mateial as possible. So the perfect solution would be a metal casting, but a etched metal sheet is the next best thing. I can certainly see limitations to this approach, you just have to look at the marvelous styrene work others on this group do. 

[EZnKY]

Hauk,
I like your philosophy and tend to follow the same approach with my own work.
One option to consider would be adding an operable sash down low on each window.  These were important air "intakes" to encourage convective ventilation in the days before air conditioning.
It's a minor detail, but it would add some variation to the window framing and make them less static.  My two cents...

[finescalerr]

Please pop in more often, Eric. -- Russ

[Sami]

Good effect Eric !

[Hauk]

Hauk,
I like your philosophy and tend to follow the same approach with my own work.
One option to consider would be adding an operable sash down low on each window.  These were important air "intakes" to encourage convective ventilation in the days before air conditioning.
It's a minor detail, but it would add some variation to the window framing and make them less static.  My two cents...

Great input, Eric. Unfortunately, all my windows are already etched, and going back for a third round is too much.

By the way, that is a prototype photo, right? I mean, there must be limits even on this forum.

[Hauk]

Just a quick progress photo to show that I am still at it.



There is probably much to be said about the painting of the walls. But to put it short, they reflect my skill level at the moment, and it will have to do.
That said, I do not think it is entirely unlike a plastered brick wall with lime deposits.

By the way, some of you might notice a change to the end wall. In an stupid effort to "simplify" things I originally left out the pillaster between the portals and the chimney to the right of the window. But of course this started to nag me like a stone in the shoe, so I just had to add them. Would have been much easier to add them before the wall was painted.... One never learns.

That chimney will also be connected to a very nice iron oven. I found the catalogue for a local company that very well might have delivered the prototype:  


To be continued.

[Barney]

I know that feeling of "How did I miss That " & "Why did I not do that in the first place" it probably has happened to all of us - but I corse the worst one is I don't like that in my case it normally happens the morning after I call it the early morning test but unfortunately in my case and a few others it ends up in the bin or start it again or even give up !
But saying all of that I think your "magic box" is a delight to all - and now with a few bits of rolling stock and loco you have given it the look of space and size and Im sure when more bits are added the walls will fade away - To me it looks incredible with a "big Wow"
Barney

[finescalerr]

Havard, you have been missing in action for weeks. It is good to see a new post. -- Russ

[Ray Dunakin]

Very nice! Just that little bit of rolling stock really helps lend a sense of scale to the space.

Will the stove be 3D printed?

[Bill Gill]

Hauk, The wall finish looks good to me.
Are you going to model that oven?

[Hauk]

Hauk, The wall finish looks good to me.
Are you going to model that oven?

Thanks!
Yep, the oven will be modelled. In fact, there were two such ovens in the workshop, one a bit more fancy than the other. I think 3D-printing might be the way to go, even if I would love to make in it massive brass with some etched trimmings.