Watery Grave

[jacq01]

    Marc,

    you're welcome.
    Here another nice amount of photo's with a lot of details.

   http://www.marielorenz.com/pages/trip8.htm

    Jacq

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Jacq. Much appreciated.

The first step now was to tackle the wood hull, as I need to have the wooden parts completed, so that the metal parts can be applied on top of the wood.

Most of the detail was sanded off the Titanic hull, but that which remained, was filled with putty, and sanded smooth.

The deck and hull needed to be clad using Individual basswood strips. After sanding, and removing the "fuzz", each strip wood strip/piece received multiple stainings of Builders in Scale "Silverwood"; light wipings (using a rag) of diluted Guache colors; and brushed on pigments, that were then soaked/blended into the wood using Isoprpyl alcohol applied with a brush....all applied in varying combinations.

The deck needed to be clad first, so that the planks (O scale 1x4 From Mt Albert.) could be cleanly/neatly trimmed to the deck/hull edge. Trimming was done using an xacto for the rough cut, and a disk sander for the final sanding/shaping.



The hull sides came next. These were also clad with indivudal strips (slightly wider ones than the deck....HO-Scale 2x10 from Mt Albert). The hull sides also have "bumper strips"  (for lack of the proper term) that needed to be applied along the upper edge, and down near the water line. These were made of larger wood strips, and needed to be pre-formed/bent, in order to be easier to attach, and stay attached. A template of the deck was made from .060" stryrene, the strips were soaked in hot water, and then clamped/formed around the edge of the template. When dry, the strips were left clamped, and stained while on affixed to the template.




Before application, each hull strip also received a random dabbing of Floquil "Driftwood", using a very frayed and coarse rag. The light wood area towards the front is where the planks were sanded smooth in order to accomodate the steel plates/cladding that will be applied there.


[sorry about the color variation on these images...and some of the focus issues.....for some resaon it just was coming out wierd..the true color is somewhere in-between]









Marc

[jacq01]

  Marc,

  put a little green ( algea) in the colours tuo apply to the wood, particullary near the waterline/ tidal range.
  This is coming along nicely.

  Jacq
 

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Jacq,

At the wood parts I will actually be adding a "ring"/line around the bottom of the hull, and onto the deck surface that indicates high water mark. I plan on using a combination of geens, balck, and transparent dark colors for this. I will likely also try to represent some algae above the line with a light green fogging or pastel powder, and also some growing algae using something like very fine scenery foam. At the rust parts the line will be shown as a darker rust tone, and a hazing of white above it.  Both will require a bit of experimenting.

The hard part for me in this scale is not overdoing the grains and textures on all the stuff, otherwise it becomes too much of a caricature......many of the techniques I use for 1/48 and 1/35 don't work here...or need to be adapted for finer results.

Marc

[Scratchman]

Marc nice work, the rusted parts will look good next to the gray wood. Looking forward to see how you do the water.

Gordon Birrell

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Gordon,
The water is something that is weighing on me. I need it to be sort of a murkey green-brownish color. I need to find something that is very viscous, (I need to pour at least 1/8" deep) and will not "climb" up the items placed in it, nor will it have surface tension..... Part of me is thinking of using Liquitex Gloss medium....problem with that is the thickness.....maybe just use it for the finish layer and add some surface texture.


Jacq.
I have been trying to find some examples of old simple windlass like would be on these type of boats, and have not had much success....but what has started to bother/confound me while doing this.......where does the anchor chain go??....does it just lay on the deck...does it go through a hole in the deck to an "anchor chain compartment".....and how big/thick of a chain would these types of vessels have?



thanks,

Marc

[finescalerr]

I can't believe it already looks as good as it does. -- Russ

[jacq01]

  Marc,

  The chain goes, coming from the hawse pipe goes via the winch/capstan through the spill pipe into the chain locker. This is a "room" in front of the collission bulkhead where the specified chain length must be stored.

  Look in Wikipedia under "anchor windlass"  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anchor_windlass
  It gives also a nice description where "the bitter end" comes from.

  here a link to a lot of drawings for a "collin archer" type wooden yacht.

http://www.sv-galena.com/WOM/index.html

  Particullary drwg 87- 88 -98 -99 are of interest as they show very well common practice for smaller vessels. 

  I'll also check my uni lecture notes about this item as it is covered by a lot of regulations.

  Jacq

[jacq01]

When you are ready to start on the water, let me know.
  Are you going to finish it as an H0 scale diorama?

  Jacq

[marc_reusser]

Thanks again Jacq.

The scale I am building in is actually 1/64 (S-scale). I will be making a small dio with the ships and some other details....probably about 30cm square.

I needed to switch over to the metal hull boat to get it moving, so I spent about 5 hours on it last night.

The top of the hull needed to be in-filled to accomodate the proposed superstructure, and deck plating. While that was setting  up I also did a quich test piece for the deck plating.



Here the new deck plating and weld seam material has been laminated to the patched model. The plating is made of .010" styrene, with .04mm (.015") styrene rod placed between it.



When dry/cured the excess is neatly trimmed and sanded to match the hull sides.



To create the appearance of the weld seam I used a Mission Models 1mm rounded chisel, the styrene rod strips which portrude above the surface of the adjacent plates, are carefully "sliced"/sculpeted...the resulting surface is then softened with a brush application of liquid solvent.





Marc

[jacq01]

   Marc,

   that looks very very good, especially the position of the seams is very convincing.
   It will be easy to add doubler plates i.w.o.  hawse pipe,bollards and opening corners.
   Round of the corners of the large deck opening and add on each corner a doubler plate to reduce crack forming.
   These plates are added for local stress relieve.
   This was one of the reasons why Liberty ships broke up suddenly as in the hurry to produce as much as possible tonnage, this was ignored on hull transitions and hold openings. 

   Jacq

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Jacq....it was pure gueswork and aesthetics.

I was thinking of foregoing the awse pipe on this smaller boat (I noticed in photos that many did not have  one...and many didn't enen seem to have an anchor chain hole/location.) I wanted to save the winch detailing for the larger boat. I noticed thet many of these smaller boats had bollards that raised above the railing, set on solid stell "boxes" for lack of a better (word). Attached below is sort of what I was thinking for this boat....of course whether it would be correct is a whole different matter [Please tell me if I am off, or something is missing]


BTW. this boat is a scale  13'-6" wide x 46' long, and the superstructure (wheelhouse and rear cabin area) will be about 6' x 16'.

Thanks for the info on the stress issues....had not considered that. How large a plate is used for the double plating at the superstructure...is this a plate that basically wraps the corner, and is merly welded on top of the existing deck plates? The opening in the hull will not be seen in the final model, so I think I will be ok with the square...thanks though for the heads-up...good to know. (interestingly I have to deal with these same /sim stress issues in my work...I just didn't think of transferring them to this....DOH! ......)


Marc

[jacq01]

 Marc,

for a boat this size, 1 capstan with deck/bulwark mounted fairlead is sufficient.
   
A doubler will be here 18" x 0,28" and is as you stated a plate welded on top. Smaller ones 6" wide are often put under the bulwark ( closed railing) stiffeners.

An interesting item not often seen are the scuppers ( drainholes from deck to hull ). These are normally a pain in the a***  as these are not maintained often, get clogged and are starting points of corrosion resulting in red rust ( structural weakening corrosion) These are spaced along the closed bulwark appox 6'0" to 8'0"

Bollards are often put higher on the bulwark and enclosed to prevent snagging.  The forces are directed to the main structure of the hull.

An interesting observation: I noticed a corrosion starts faster on points that are subject to higher stress than the rest of the structure.

Jacq

[marc_reusser]

I went back through my photo files and archives, and found a solution for this boat that may work, and differenciate it more from the larger boat. (See attached Photos)......these boats seem to simply have a pair of raised bollards on the fore deck, and one on the top of the bow(?)....any opinion. Can the one on the top of the bow be ommited in favor for one of those inward bent poles (flagpole?/rigging-pole?)?...or can there be both?

Approx how big are scuppers through the deck into the hull...(I always thought scuppers drained to the outside....is the water then pumped out via the Bilge pump?).....and, do the scuppers sit in, or outside of, the 6" double plating along the rail base?


Marc

[jacq01]

  Marc,

  sorry I wasn't clear, scuppers drain to the outside. 
  You need at least 1 capstan ( see the third boat in the last picture ) and a fairlead to take care of the anchor chain / wire and an anchor ( mandatory) .
  Anchor    approx 75 -100 lbs
  Chain     1/2" - 5/8" 
  Manilla   3/4" - 1"
  Anchor chain  360'0" to 400'0" pending  average waterdepth  with 20% chain and 80% manilla.
  For fishing vessels, tugs and workboats more chain, often 100%.

  Equipment, anchors and chain + screwed on parts ( brass, etc.) are the first parts dissappearing after a ship is abandonded.

Jacq