Watery Grave

[jacq01]

   Marc, 

   looks good,  the bottom "bumper " is a bit strange, but will not be so evident when the water is in and other debris in place.  As chester noticed, a nice way to hide the chine. 
The other rubbing strakes look convincing, a good number of bumps and dents will do no harm. 

  Jacq
 
 

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Guys!....err maybe I should first ask/make sure what fairing or hiding a "chine" is.... sounds like something the workers yell at me on the jobsite

Jacq; The bottom strake was sort of an afterthought.....I think I was just too tired of making weld seams, and I also needed to hide a small space between the bow, and that vertical bow piece. I am hoping that I will be able to create the right looking dents and damage to these.

Slow and tedious progress...but I have finally got some of the rough superstructure done. The red parts are the heavily modified kit superstructure...all the cast on detail (which was a lot) has been removed, length shortened, and the top edges of the pieces have all been reshaped/cut flat (they come shaped to the same curvature as the deck) The reson for using the kit pieces is because they are a nice rigid plastic , and are pre-shaped at the bottom to match the hull...so they will function as a good substructure and template for the new styrene pieces. The larger holes in the sides are where I was first contemplating portholes, but have since changed my mind on the shape/height of the superstructure.




The windows (just set in place) are modifed/cut down  "SR&RL Coach Windows" from Grandt Line. I liked the arched shape of these to give the boat more of an "older period" look.

I also decided that on the finished model I wanted to be able to see down into the flooded hull, so I built a rear compartment hatch frame....but I think it is a bit too large of an opening...so I need to build another one. [...on a boat with this severe of an arch to the deck....is the upper edge of such a surround basically "paralell" to the deck...or say paralelll/in line with the horizontal planes of the superstructure/paralell to the water line...(thus causing it to be taller at one end than the other)? ]


Marc

[jacq01]

  Very good progress.

  Minimum coaming height for  hatch reardeck is 610mm.  When this hatch is only opened in port for maintenance etc
  height can be reduced to 300mm and not have the possiblitiy to be opened from both sides ( toggles only on outside)
  Hatch can be hinged and have portholes ( skylights for engine room) and shown in opened positon.
  Upper plane of coaming to be straight to enable opening hatch, plane is NOT necessary parallel to sheer ( curvature) in deck. Often front and rear match minimum coaming height and top is straight between these points. Transverse the deck curvature ( camber) is often followed for easy water run off.  at centreline the distance deck - top of coaming 610mm.
It is also possible to have a knuckle in the hatch ( shape like a roof), especilly when skylights are used.

  Wheelhouse windows look very good. Dooropening behind window is correct in height ( 450mm)
  Normally wheelhouse floor is raised  300mm (12") so coaming of wheelhouse doors are allowed to be 150mm ( 6")
  Total deck - doorsill = 450mm .

  Close port holes under wheelhouse windows. 
  Maybe you can wrap a thin sheet stryrene/foil around front of superstructure to cover openings ? Rotting through.?

  WATER.   use for 2 -2,5 mm murky coloured envirotex and don't bother about  creep up.
                 as final layer use opaque coloured acrylic medium gloss heavy applied by brush to imitiate calm water
                 with some wind effect. Use coarse brush in circular moves. The thickness will cover the creep of the evirotex.
                  Not to hard to create a 0,5mm layer or more. ( LIQUITEX GLOSS MEDIUM HEAVY)

  Jacq

[marc_reusser]

Thanks for all the info and advice Jacq.

Available time has been tight....but I made some progress on the superstructure. Also made some of the interior detail parts for the wheelhouse area....but need to do some prep and painting before I can install them. Next will be the wheelhouse roof, and some of the revits, bolts and details for the superstructure. (The joint/gap at the hull/superstructure joint will be concealed by reinforcing angles and straps.) Interior of the wheelhouse will be lined in wood.








Marc

[michael mott]

I am already imagining what this project will look like when it is finished and your work will no doubt exceed my expectations, judging from your earlier work. No pressure at all

regards Michael

[jacq01]

   Looks very good, I like the wheelhouse shape and the broken and bent railing.
  What do you do for a exhaust ?  Is it steam or diesel ?   Is it a tug?

  The joint between superstructure and hull can be a simple strip, welded to the deck and bolted/riveted even welded
  to the deckhouse/wheelhouse sides.
  Wheelhouse camber can be 1/2 of main deck camber.

  jacq

[jacq01]

   
     Just found this,  lots of details ( railings, masts, nav, lights, davits, etc,etc

  http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/dio/dio-eh/p2/hodges-index.html

   and moods.... click on the buttons at the top.... 

  http://sp.maquettes.free.fr/pages/43.html

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Jacq...the second link really had some stuff that was of help.


...well nothing exciting or earth shattering...but since Marty mentioned elswhere my penchant for not completing anything  .......I thought I had better show what I completed at 5:30am yesterday, when I couldn't fall asleep.

Sorry for the over exposure...I tried shooting in direct sunlight for the heck of it. It looks like I will be needing around 20-40 of these rotting wood piles/posts/timbers in various sizes shapes and heights for the base on this project. This one is about 2-1/2" tall.  The line in the image shows where the water line will be. This was done using modified a wet-on-wet application of Vallejo acrylics, recommended to me by Per Olav Lund. The dark shiney (wet) area around the bottom was done after the painting, by dipping the post into a small container of thinned Tamiya "Smoke".  I still need to do a more experimenting with the coloring (there is actually more variation and some brown than the image shows)...but it was a fun quickie project to FINISH .




Marc

[jacq01]

 
  Very well excecuted mooring post.  Leave it as it is.....................the water around it is too contaminated to support any sort of shellfish living on it.

  i'll have a nice train weekend, nothing fancy, just fun.  Next weekend I'll see Marcel and Alan in Utrecht.

wonder what progress will be by that time...

Jacq

[marc_reusser]

Thanks.

I was not planning on any barnacles or such....though I was thinking of just the slightest bit of green ground foam at the very bottom of the green area, to represent a build-up of the moss/mildew....or maybe soem sea-slime/grass that has attached itself........mainly though I just need to play around with adding a bit more brownish streaking and coloration at in areas. I will probably end up making about twice as many of these as I need, and then picking out the better ones for the final scene.

Enjoy the weekend. Have fun with the guys. Hopefully it isn't too cold & wet. Please give say hello to Marcel for me & give him my regards.

Marc

[lab-dad]

Congratulations on finishing the project!
I am looking forward to seeing your finished water with algae and what not.
-Marty

not modeling, working on the workbench.....

[marc_reusser]

The images attached at the very bottom, show the types of rotten wood I need to make.  Beacuse of the number I need to make and the linited time in regards to all the other parts of the dio, I took a slightly different and faster approach and didn't experiment as I might have like to....but in the end, I think they will work fine in the overall scene.

Using Square and rectangular Balsa pieces.

Break the corners, score and rough up with a razor saw.



Clean off the worst fuzz, and raduis more using 180-grit sandpaper.



Use Dremel with wire wheel to shape and grain.





...then use tweezers to remove fuzz and splinters.


Brush on a coat of diluted Matte medium folllowed, while still damp with a coat of diluted walmut drawing ink.




Working "wet" over eachother apply Vallejo acrylics (I used these colors because they were the closest to what I needed that I had on hand)




...once again use tweezers to remove any remaining or new fuzz.

Apply diluted spot washes of MIG "Brown Wash"; when dry mix Vallejo acrylics into a murky black-green, and paint "waterline"






Using Micro-Mark fiberglass pencil lightly brush to remove any coagulated paint, fuzz, more subtly blend/transition the colors and to refine the grain.






....Next is the Moss green....




Marc

[jacq01]

   That last photo must be your benchmark, fantastic...............

   Put on the spot where the broken handrail was attached, broken weldseam rests, particullary on spots like these bad welding was done, creating corrosion nests.

  Jacq

[michael mott]

Thanks for the picture SBS Marc it is great to see how others do things, the reference pics do tell the story of the sort of atmosphere that you are working for.

regards Michael

[Gordon Ferguson]

Thanks Marc for SBS.

Good timing as I have have been experimenting  along similiar lines - although my wooden piles are for a dry desert  situation rather than a watery one - but also for MIG challenge


Techniques are very similiar to yours , first 2 are balsa, with different stains last three are hard wood dowels again with different finishes, paint, stain additional wire brushing.

Not there yet but the second one has the type of surface I am looking for but color needs to more like 1st one.( I think, as I have never been in a hot dry desert myself?)

Gordon