Watery Grave

[Dennis McCarthy]

Great work, as usual Marc.

Here is a link to a few snaps of an ol' scow, not quite a derelict and it's wood rather than steel but there may be a few details of interest.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mayacama1

Thank you for sharing all your techniques, experiments and models.

Cheers,
Dennis

[jacq01]

   Marc,

   a muffler outside is on ships not common.   For the type of boat you have in mind, a 150 - 300 HP engine would do the job so a 4" exhaust is not unusual. 
   Don't go overboard  with rivets, as you have used mainly welded constructions.  You can add a bolted plate over the rudder stock/quadrant.  Add in the rear a double bollard port and starboard.

   Jacq

     
 

[marc_reusser]

Thanks for all the comments and support, and helpful information. Much appreciated...keeps me moving forward.

Dennis,
Nice to see you posting here. Thanks for the link. Great pics...especailly the views of the deck and works.

Jacq,
I agree on the rivets....I am just adding some here and there on the double plating areas for "Reinforcement" .....I unfortunately need these for some "artistic license: too add some visual detail for paint effects....but thanks to Dennis' pics I may be able to do more with "deck clutter" in some areas.
I am also cosidering a small area of pooled water on deck on the low side of the ship, with some dirt/debris and weeds growing there (from washed/blown aboard, or bird-pooped seeds)....but that would be one of the last details added after painting.

OK...4" exhaust it will be....though I am thinking of a bent/angled one with the angled cut end (I think I have a beautiful Mosskit hollow exhaust for a Panther that can be modified for this).  I was thinking in the front left corner if the rear cabin...next to the arched roof area (I have a mushroom type vent in that location on the other side.  About how high should the exhaust be...I assume about 6" above the pilot house roof.



Marc

[jacq01]

   

About how high should the exhaust be...I assume about 6" above the pilot house roof.

     6" is a minimum.   If it is close to a door or opening window, make it taller.  The fume backdraft into the wheelhouse was not appreciated very much.    Don't forget the hinged lid on top.   

   Jacq

[marc_reusser]

This project is not dead yet.

Nothing much...but it felt like it took darn near forever.....hard to see...but there are some 300 rivets there  so far. 



....I sure don't look forward to masking this.

Built the base for this scene also....will post a pic as I get some of the small details added to it.


Marc

[finescalerr]

Looks like a lot more than "nothing much" to me. -- Russ

[lab-dad]

cast rivets or stick on?
Just curious since I have never used the stick on, I dont think they would have enough relief, but adding several hundred might be easier?
Of course in this scale how thick do they really need to be? .010"?...
-Marty

[marc_reusser]

Marty...

Neither.   The rivets (.018 & .023 dia) are all done with a Waldron "Sub-Miniature" punch & die set, out of .005 styrene. Then applied individually using Plastruct solvent.

I can't tell you how "liberated" I feel since I purchased this Waldron set, and the set from Micro-Mark......I am planning on purchasing one or two hex shaped punch & die sets as well.



Marc

[Hector Bell]

Hi Marc, what happened to the tug boat dio?

Martin

[marc_reusser]

Um...it's sitting in my cabinet and file drawers....got hung up on some details/ideas and how to resolve them, and I never got back to it.

Also got somewhat hung-up in my own mind about the ships themselves...the further I got into the project and research, the more the boats began to feel wrong, out of proportion and charicatureish....so was reticent to invest any more time going down a wrong path.

I probably should give it a go again, as I have gotten several inquiries about progress on this dio over the last year. 



Marc

[Hector Bell]

Marc, if it helps with reference info, you could join a small group of which I'm a member.  It's a yahoo group called classicwoodenboatmodels and although it was set up by a woody fan (you know, shiny stuff<G>), the guy who started it has uploaded a lot of files and drawings of workboats.  OK, maybe they're all wooden, but the basic proportions didn't really change much and all the upper works are likely to be in wood, as are your decks I see.

Worth a try.  Mike has uploaded a lot of stuff at his own expense and we all owe him a debt of gratitude for the time and expense he's gone to for his fellow boat fans.  This was not being done on the bigger model boat forums.

Also, if you want to swat up on some boat nomenclature, design aspects, etc., we can all help you, as indeed I can on here.  Just ask.
Cheers,
Martin

[marc_reusser]

I have received a good number of inquiries about this dio, and whether I was going to continue it......then today, I was doodling in the corner of my pad at work, thinking about the project, when it occured to me I needed a buoy  for detail, interest, and to fill some more space in the scene. .....I figured it would also be a good way to work myself back into the right frame of mind for the project.  So I have now removed, boxed, and stored away all my other "in progress" builds, and this is now on my bench.......




M

[marc_reusser]

Grrrrr......I had forgotten what an absolutely retarded scale 'S' is.  Not a scale I can comparatively visualize in at all. ....first buoy base attempt ended up being 1/48 ...#@!*±%

....back to the bench for round two.....this time with that worthless MRR scale ruler and calipers......Grrrrrr.

M

[Malachi Constant]

I think you got cornfused there! 

S scale:  3/16" = 1 foot ... every 1/64" = 1 scale inch

It's 1/35 that requires the special ruler. 

Cheers,
Dallas

[Gordon Ferguson]

Glad this project is back on the desk, if your next version is too big you can always turn it into this

http://www.postlerferguson.com/work/buoy-lamps