1/32 Deutz-(ish) Gas Mech (Using Bmann Davenport)

[Chuck Doan]

James, I like that Simplex a lot. Looks like the nameplate has gone missing. THe skips are nice too!

[Craig_H]

Marc,     I like what you did with the Pepsi sign  and the loco and the faded paint looks good... Waiting to see what you do next.       Craig

[marc_reusser]

The evening started out OK.....just doing a simple color mix chart to see where I wanted to go with the loco color...



The chosen colors and panel fading went on fine....but then came the chipping.....its one of those types of things that when you think you have gone too far...you definitely have! ......but you can still convince yourself it is OK...till you look at the images photos. ......I am still holding out hope that it can be saved, and some of the chipping will tone down and even almost dissapear after some of the other weathering and the caked on dust that is still to come. .....but FWIW....here is where its at. 













MR

[Gordon Ferguson]

Marc,

for you thats is heavy chipping, for me its pretty lightweight

Looking at your other work " currently" it does not have your usual subtle touch , however sure you will bring it back. Would have thought sponging on/ painting in some of the top colour/undercoats on to and around some of the chipped areas may help and combined with your weathering it will soon be be back to where it should be.

IMHO, not sure about the chassis, its a great representation of sun faded red paint but somehow its looks too light tonally against the body, if that makes any sense - my view may change when you applied further "oily washes" etc. 

As an aside thanks for doing all the work on the colour mixes, saves me the work and I think you have found the colour for my Road Roller - which I must finish!   

[finescalerr]

It's still a little early to criticize anything. Let's see what happens after your next couple of weathering stages. At the very worst you would strip whatever is necessary and start over; hardly a catastrophe. -- Russ

[Gordon Ferguson]

OK Russ, but Marc's proved himself to be a big tough guy .... he can take the odd little comment

Anyway I can assure you when he sees the paint work on the "roller" he will be able to fully indulge himself with a full 3 to 4 page critique

[shropshire lad]

Marc ,

  As Gordon says , you have gone a bit to far with the chipping , especially around the handles on the sliding engine covers .BUT , as you say , it will tone down when you get some more weathering on, in particular the dust layers . You could also have areas of dusty oil stains on the bottom of engine covers , and judging by what some of my photos of working locos show , quite large areas at that .
  Have you decided what sort of industry you loco is operating in ? Because , I'm sure I don't need to tell you ,that will influence the type and amount of weathering you should apply .
  Whatever you do , don't chuck it in the thinners bucket , or you'll never finish it ,

   Nick

[lab-dad]

I bet some layering/pin-washing/detailing with some gouache over the heavier areas would look good too.
-Marty

[narrowgauger]

Marc what went wrong ?  Not at all like your subtle pre-weathering.  Chipping is not necessarily too heavy, but rather illogical.  For example on the driver compartment I can see the paint wearing off the edges of the steel plate, but cannot fathom why it would chip on the sides alongside the beading.  also the engine cover panels were slide opening.  this would create a competely different "paint damage" compared to your chipping when the panels are moved forward.

the chipping to the perforated front of the engine cover also seems illogical.  In this area I would expect lots of oil seeping out from the engine compartment thus protecting the paint, but at showing oil staining, dust etc.

hope these are valid comments.

keep having fun

Bernard

[marc_reusser]

Thanks for all the input and comments guys.....very much appreciated.

Gordon:

Don't you know...I am building this for the 2013 NNGC...so I have to be heavy on the chipping...needs to appeal to the masses...antlers for it are in the works . I went heavier, because I was worried that I would lose a good bit of it under he further weathering (I did sort of the same on the tractor loco project)....but it did get out of hand...especially in the areas Bernard mentions....the other problem that sot of caused me to be erratic on the chipping, was that I was probably looking at too many different reference images, and could not really focus in on one, and it's respective look/finish. 

On the rose color, I have quite a number of images where the reds went to those shades. t one point I was debating going darker, but decided against it because I was worried (and have had it happen before in the past) is that the subsequent weathering (washes, oil, grime) will darken the color, and if I start darker...it will go too dark on the final model. (I went darker on the 1/35 gas mech. frame, so it will be interesting to see if this concern was valids true once I get both done.)

Since you mention an interest in the colors.....and I assume you are looking at the bottom row on the card;
the numbers under those colors indicate the paint ratio (number of drops of each color in the mix). For the loco I used the fouth color from the left....the numbers are not completely visible, but it is 4/2/8 (4-drops of XF-13, 2-drops of XF-3, 8-drops of XF-2).....this was prayed in two light coats, leaving the coats thinner towards some of the panel bottoms, and inside corners (to give some shading and CM effect). the panel shading was done using XF-14,...again in two very thin applications, to vary the highlighting amount and location.  In order not to have a completely matte surface, I added some Tamiya "Clear" (number escapes me at the moment) into the paints before thinning and shooting.


Nick:
I was thinking of some kind of clay or brickworks operation for this loco....so a good amount of dirt on her. I chose this because I want to experiment and try the mud and caked dirt technique on a loco.....though in the end I may chicken out a bit, in fear of ruining the model (once that acrylic resin mix goes on, it's almost impossible to remove).


Marty,
I will probably do the effects using Vallejo paints instead of guache, I am more comfortable with them, and by using them there are less surface tension issues to deal with (Guache always beads on me, especially over filters and oil washes), and I won't have to worry about accidentaly re-activating them during the numerous steps still to come.


Bernard
Thanks for the pointed and spot on critique. I agree on the radiator grill, and will fix/repaint this (easy to do mask and doe with the AB)....The side panels Iwill have to try and retouch the chips on the panel surface along both side edges by brush (you are very correct that these would not occur in this fashion during normal use)..the top and bottom edges I may leave, as these are lift-out panels and "could" chip/peel in those areas over time  . The wear at the cab edges beyond the rim were pulled from the photos, but as I mentioned above....I was somewhat schizophrenic in my interpretation of those

Thanks again...keep em coming.


Marc

[marc_reusser]

FWIW. ...and as part of the SBS....here is how how the chipping and scratches were done (along with the cut bristle brush shown, a small soft  0/5 and 0/3 brush was also used).







Marc

[Chuck Doan]

I have the exact same issues with chipping. It is hard to know when to stop and to have too many different reference pics while doing it. I have started making quick sketches and notes first (from the photos) to help clarify what I hope to do. I am sure you will get it to a happy(er) point eventually.

The colors and fading to me are quite nice.

[Gordon Ferguson]

Marc,
thanks for the info on the paint mixes, I was sort of hoping that was the code  - at the moment very frustrated as I have plenty of tamiya paint but have run out of their  thinners and it appears to be in short supply in the UK ... something to do with "regulations"

Re your reply on Gnatterbox, my comment back to Russ was very much tongue in cheek .... I did realise that when he rushed to your defence that he has been spending far to much time with those thong clad friends  and he saw himself very much as a knight in shining armour  rushing to the aid of a damsel in distress  .... may I suggest that you give up wearing the Lycra shorts!

Re red chassis, as I said I think it a great rendition of sun bleached paint  .......... and from my own experience of starting with too dark a base coat more than once and by the time I had weathered/washed etc ending up with a small dark blob then you are no doubt right about its current tonal value.

Anyway I am a bit disappointed that you appear to keeping going with this, was hoping that with a severe critique you would give up and that me or Nick could just send you a SAE and box and you could just send this "failed "model to one of us   

     

[finescalerr]

Gordon, you really must get back on your medication. The myriad beautiful bikini girls notwithstanding I really wasn't defending Marc's chipping attempts; my comment meant exactly what it said. I have seen too many modelers display a work in progress at a point where it looks lousy, then go on to produce something of genuine superiority.

Sure, the chipping is overdone and creates an almost annoying appearance now. But who knows what improvement the next steps will provide? No doubt at least half of us have managed to save a hack job and got better results than had we not screwed up.

I, on the other hand, am so disgusted with my crude weathered siding attempts of a few months ago that I really do plan to start again from scratch.

But Marc is a better magician than I so let's see what happens. And let's razz him if he can't fix it!!!!

Russ

[narrowgauger]

Gordon

agreed Tamiya thinners should be used whenever possible.  However metholated spirits will work fine if mixed in the airbrush cup.  MEK even better.

I recommend that you do not put any left over paint back in the bottle if not mixed with Tamiya X20.

have fun
Bernard