Madera Sugar Pine Lumber Company # 1 Old Betsy

[SDwn]

    Looks great Gordon, can't wait to see this one finished. Question, what have you found best to glue styrene to wood, 5 min epoxy, Krazy Glue?    Thanks   Sean

[Scratchman]

Sean, The two glues I uses are Testors liquid plastic cement. This is for styrene to styrene and for rivets and nut bolt casting onto wood. To glue wood to wood or wood to styrene I go with a Cyanoacrylate Super Thin 1-3 sec. most of the time but I will go with the Extra Thick 10-25 sec. on some things.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[SDwn]

Thanks Gordon, I will have to try that. I like the way you get all of the rivets straight, you must have a steady hand. Even with a line drawn in for placement I still find the need to fiddle with them after they are glued and usually end up turning the rivet into a pile of plastic goo. How do you go about this?   Thanks again.  Sean

[Ken Hamilton]

Does anybody use Walther's "GOO" anymore?
I actually use it quite a bit for styrene-to-wood joints.
Old habits die hard............

[finescalerr]

I use Goo a lot in many applications. Even though it's a little tricky to control its stringy quality, it is very strong, lasts virtually forever, can be removed with lacquer thinner, and I can roll away any excess completely with a toothpick. That gives me better control over the finish than I would have with other glues. It is nice to see a top modeler who appreciates its qualities. -- Russ

[Ken Hamilton]

Quick question, Gordon:  Do you drill each of your rivet locations and install the heads
with the pins, or do you cut the heads off flush and scootch them around in a dab of
liquid cement until they're in the right place?

(...As you may have guessed by my familiarity with the technique, I use Method #2)

[chester]

"scootch" them around? I'm not familiar with this technological lingo.

I too would be interested in knowing how you do the rivet and bolt head layout at such perfect increments Gordon.

[Scratchman]

Ken,when adding the castings on styrene I will cut off the rod and glue with liquid plastic cement. When adding to thin wood like the channels on the frame I will cut off the rod and glue with liquid plastic cement and this will take more applications of glue. When the wood is thick enough I will drill holes and leave the rod on. My section house in last year's Modelers' Annual has hundreds of castings holding on the corrugated sheets and I drilled holes for all of  them. This is only for the smaller castings. I will use a cyanoacrylate on larger castings and parts.

How to add rivets:

Mark out the location with a pencil.

Cut off  the heads.

Use a single-edge razor blade and I like working on a pad of paper. I will do a full spur and place them all upright on the pad.  I don't know if other liquid plastic cements will act the same or not. I use Testors. I brush on the the cement and with the tip of a sharp razor blade pick up the casting and place it on the marks, pushing them into the cement. After I have a few in place I will brush on more cement. Note, keep the cement thin and don't puddle it.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[jmartin]

Gordon,

After you place the rivets and brush on more cement, do you find that any excess cement is easily covered with painting?  I am working on a Panzer IV right now and I have a couple parts that I got a bit heavy handed with the solvent application and those areas concern me with painting.

John

[Ken Hamilton]

Thanks, Gordon.

That's pretty much the attachment sequence I use, except I find that trying to pick up
a rivet head with the tip of a blade usually results in the casting flying into oblivion.
I use a toothpick with a small dab of dried GOO at the end (...there's that GOO again, Russ...)
which provides just enough "stick" to pick up the head but release it when the casting is laid
on the solvent-moistened styrene.

Thanks for the insight, Gordon.  Keep those in-progress pics coming!

[Chuck Doan]

Chester, if the rivet is a skidge off, you have to scootch it back into place. Dont forget to moosh it into the glue. (Don't smoosh, that would be too much)

[LeOn3]

Everytime I read how you guys do some new technics, I have to pick up my dictionary to understand what you all mean.
Good for my English though 
But now I am off the track. Scootch, moosh, smoosh???

Leon

[finescalerr]

Chuck, go stand in the corner. And no peeking. -- Russ

[MrBrownstone]

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

search: "Moosh"  can refer to;

Muş (Մուշ in Armenian), a town in modern Turkey

(موش) Mouse in Persian

a character in The Legend of Zelda: Oracle of Ages and Seasons

Australian slang for "mouth"


Mike 

[mobilgas]

Gordon,      WOW  .....very nice work. question? what scale is Old Betsy.     Craig     mich