1/2" Scale project still in progress (somehow)

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Franck!

Dan, it's been a long time since I filled out an NMRA contest form, but you are probably right! After taking pains to be so sloppy some judge would likely dock me for it. I should just add a smeary fingerprint and be done with it.

[marklayton]

Chuck -

Amazing attention to the seemingly insignificant details that aren't at all insignificant to the whole.  Such as...

> the paint on the door frame showing the frame was at some time painted after the numbers were installed
> the subtle signs of water damage at the bottom of the window frame just above the sill
> appropriate wear, grime, and burnishing where countless hands have opened the screen door

You've done a fantastic job of breaking the weathering apart into smaller, focused applications appropriate to that specific spot.  Much more realistic than an overall mist of the dust-colored paint. Bravo!

Mark

[MrBrownstone]

Hello Chuck,

That is some remarkable work.... It is a level of detail I rarley see.

thanks for sharing your workings with Us....

Mike

[Ken Hamilton]

Chuck showed this on another Forum and is getting the same responses over there.
He not only observes and absorbs the smallest details imaginable, he can replicate them perfectly.

This is simply other-worldly.  Chuck's gotta be some sort of alien or something.

[HOn3_rr]

Amazing creation!!  Pure eye candy.... 

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Guys!

Here is another try of the hairspray method. A vent pipe for an underground storage tank made from .06 diameter Plastruct styrene. Since I am airbrush illiterate, I have a problem if I want to hand-brush acrylics, since they will cut the water based hairspray. So I tried the following:

Testors Flat Black spray can base coat-dry overnite. (Floquil Roof Brown is good too, but takes too long to dry)
Fairly heavy aerosol Treseme hairspray-dry 10 min.
Light seal coat of Flat Black spray-dry 10 min. (I think Dullcoat could work too)
Water-thinned, brushed on coats of Polly Scale colors that match the wall. Dry 10 min.
Start removing paint with small water wet stiff paintbrush. Came off easy.
Fade with white gwosh, seal with Dullcoat.
Add rust gwosh (Burnt Sienna), Bragdon powders to chipped areas using sharp brush, sponge and stump. Seal with Dullcoat.
Streaks added with rust gwosh with sharp brush n spit. Still playing with that.

The crackle finish near the top occurred after I applied the first coats of Polly Scale and held it up to a Halogen desk lamp to speed dry. I couldn't get it to repeat predictably though. The clamp was made from .002 shim stock, folded around the pipe. Added a rib with half shaved .010 Plastruct styrene rod and super glued on. Screws are Tichy plastic rivets with slots cut in.











A few quick shots in 100 degree sun (not counting that it's 24 times larger for this model!)

[Ken Hamilton]

It doesn't get more real-looking than that, Chuck.  The vent pipe is amazing.

I keep saying I have to try the "water-based-hair-spray/picked-off-peeled-paint" technique.
This clinches it.

[shropshire lad]

Chuck ,

  As usual your finishes are second to none .

  I know that the crackled effect came about accidentally , is it an effect you want to reproduce more often ?
If so , have you tried using artists cracking and aging varnishes ? I believe a number of companies make them and thought that they might produce the effect you were after . I saw this on a 1/24th scale Opel Blitz truck by Stefano Zaghetto that came out particularly well . I think you may be familiar with the article .

   Nick

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Ken, Try it it's easy. Test on a scrap part though. But you knew that.

Hi Nick, I hadn't thought of doing that effect at first, but it would be nice to add now and then. Most of the craft store finishes seem too big. I forgot about that article, I'll look it up to see what he did. That was the best use I have seen!

Found it:
http://www.gmpat.it/images/images%20galmezzimil/Opel%20Stefano/TETTO%202_rid.JPG

http://www.gmpat.it/images/images%20galmezzimil/Opel%20Stefano/PARAFANGO_rid.JPG

[Ken Hamilton]

Thanks for the link, Chuck. I've seen that, too, but didn't he use some obscure brand of crackle-stuff
that was only available in Europe?  I might be wrong on that source, but my experiments with craft
store crackle paste have never turned out results like THAT.

PS:  I ordered an "air eraser" from Harbor Freight last week (on sale for 20-bucks) that should be here any day.
I'm anxious to see what kind of worn-paint effects it'll create.  Either way, it should be worth $20 of fun.

Have any of you guys used one for weathering?

[danpickard]

Geez Chuck,
You don't miss much!  The "experiment" looks pretty darn close to my eye.  Incredible combination of chips/rusts/streaks running down the pipe.  The clamp detail is a really nice little piece in itself. 

The garage door is a bit too bright for my liking though 

Dan

[chester]

I can't believe how excited I got over viewing a mere pipe but it really is super Chuck. Hey, that's it!....  SuperChuck! The caped model crusader.

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks, Dan! Next time I'll print it on some plain brown wrapping paper.

Ken, I have used mine with the baking soda for dulling the paint on the boards for this project. Marc has done some tests on wood and metal as well. Should be fun to play with!

Thanks, Chester, that's just Super. 

[MrBrownstone]

Hey Chuck,

just when I think I have seen your best ..here you come with more of that finescale detail stuff... 

Great work... I'm lovin it..

I did look at those pictures... that paint cracking affect is well known in the autobody industry.. except it is not a desired effect... it would normally mean a new paint job on that part. (they call it "checking paint" or "spidering")

If any of you were not already aware of how...next chance you get stop by an autobody paint shop with that picture. (and I'm sure you will find out how that can be done on purpose with ease, in any desired scale)

the weathering part you could teach the autobody painter...hehehe


Mike

[Ray Dunakin]

Wow... not many people would even think to put in the rib detail on that pipe clamp!