1/2" Scale project still in progress (somehow)

[RoughboyModelworks]

Outstanding as always Chuck... just an amazing eye.

Actually, I think Chuck has been pulling our leg here with this "model."  As has happened in the past, specifically the wheel and the screen door and now the lamp, these items magically appear on Chuck's project within days of them disappearing from either my porch or backyard shed. At first I blamed it on the pack of hooligans living next door, but Chuck has admitted to taking these items. In his defense though he said he wouldn't bother with the midnight raids at all if I just cleaned this kind of stuff up instead of leaving them in such a tattered condition...

Paul - off to buy some Krylon

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Paul! I already scouted your new digs...you won't know what your missing!

A few more toys came in. Some oil lubester parts, a different style light shade, insulators and some electrical fittings for the sign lights. And an electrical box and empty meter insert. Now for the time to put it all together. I have some on order, but it hasn't arrived yet.





I have been putting these on a "sprue" so they stay together for cleaning (by PAP). It also gives me a handle; I can cut them off and chuck the sprue in a pin vise as I do the smooth sanding (at least that's the theory!). I tried some thinner sections on these shades...looks OK, now to see if I can clean them.

The 3D models assembled:

[Fred H.]

Chuck -- This PAP option looks VERY promising. What's the ACTUAL size of these? Going to use the "sprue" idea on my parts as well.

Fred H.

[Chuck Doan]

The shades are just a bit over 1/2" diameter. The hole in the front of the meter box is 1/4". (forgot the big penny shot!)

[mobilgas]

Chuck,  Have you thought of doing these detail parts in Mass quantities and selling   to us less fortunate modeler's like myself  that don't have access to this technology    The stuff your doing has not been done before...in 1/2 inch.  I think there would be a market for it. [ thats my 2 cents worth]      Craig

[Chuck Doan]

I agree, Craig but first I would need to purchase the software and a new computer to run it. Currently I only have access to some very high dollar stuff for personal use, and only a limited amount of that. I am watching Fred's use of Sketch-up to see if more cost-reasonable programs can be used. I would like to have full control of the 3D model process someday so I can do whatever I want without restrictions.

Of course then I would need to learn how to make 2 piece molds and castings in soft metal or resin. Maybe when I retire! (IF I can afford to. IF I make it to that age. IF I have all my faculties...)

[lab-dad]

Very interesting, thanks for showing us Chuck!
Boys you are all witnessing the future (for us real modelers) grin!
-Marty

[finescalerr]

Yeah, what Marty said.

Chuck, you are doing the kind of stuff I have fantasized about for fifteen years. I have been waiting for the technology to catch up to my hopes and it looks as though it is getting there.

What kind of cleanup do the parts require? Any filing or sanding? Have you noticed any stepping? Are the parts as robust as styrene or good quality resin? Can you fill us in on the pros and cons?

Oh, one other thing: Do you think we could do an article about this "breakthrough" technology for a Modelers' Annual? (You don't have to write it; I could phone you.)

Russ

[Chuck Doan]

Well, from my very limited experience so far:
There are noticeable steps, but they are very shallow. I think a good coat of Mr. Surfacer would cover a lot of them up (yet to try this though.) The material sands easily, but since the translucent material can make it hard to tell when the surface step is gone, it is best to prime first to see the things you are trying to remove. I also have to stratagize my parts to allow for the sanding-small boltheads for example will be added later so I don't ruin then in sanding although they could easily be done in the 3D model. It seems hold paint very well, and ACC or epoxy works too (it's not a solventable glue material) It can also be cleaned with Lacquer thinner or Acetone.

You can't really scratch it with a fingernail, but it is fairly brittle. I could remove the smaller parts with a good finger thwack.  There is also a tiny bit of warpage over the long sprue. I'm not sure how bad this can get, or if it can be corrected like a warped resin part.
The cost is reasonable to me since I could never fabricate these things easily, and almost certainly not 2 or more matching items. The cost and need to clean each part up could put a crimp in plans to do a lot of parts. The best use really would be to use them as masters for casting more. Then the cleanup time and costs (including the 3D model) could not be beat over a hand fabricated master (just look at the live steam guys-you could never fab a wood or other material pattern this easily-especially a mirrored part). But since I am doing a few items, and I only finish something about every 2 ½ years, it's looking good!

My outlook is that these are no different than any detail part I might buy from a manufacturer or scrounge from a kit. In fact, most of my modeling has been centered on using other people's parts for many years now. The only difference is the cost per part, and the fact that I get to decide what the item will be.

Somebody will eventually offer this kind of service; you specify the item and provide research, and someone will model it and send you the STL file to do with as you please. I also anticipate that the resolutions will keep improving and the costs will come down at least a bit. Eventually these things may become standard tools on modeler's workbench. Why not, I never dreamed I would be doing it and now I am!

[finescalerr]

Thanks, Chuck. Your answer is consistent with the few parts I have seen and from a conversation I had last fall with Bill Meredith (an excellent modeler from Ottawa). His conclusion was that 3D modeling is most effective when creating parts with compound curves. I didn't get to go into as much detail with him as you provide, though.

When you write that the parts you received "are no different than any detail part I might buy from a manufacturer or scrounge from a kit", do you mean they require about the same level of cleanup?

As Marc Reusser and I concluded this evening, at the rate hobbies are shrinking, twenty or so years from now we may buy many manufactured parts and complete models from individuals who design and output items from 3D CAD programs based on our specifications. They may replace at least some of today's mass produced plastic kits. I probably will be too old to build decent models but some of you guys may have a field day.

Russ

[SandiaPaul]

Great parts and you have given me some good ideas for my own work!

One thing, what is "PAP"?

[Chuck Doan]

Sorry...Print A Part. (I hate typing)

Russ I just meant it as a comparison to using something someone else made. There is extra cleanup required, but it is mostly light surface sanding, no flash or mis-matched mold distortion or worn out mold flaws...or sinkholes or air bubbles...so maybe in comparison to bad castings, it is better!

[Philip Smith]

  awesome venture!


Philip

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks for the info Spencer! I saw a used Invision machine for 13k...maybe I'll get two!

I would love to see that show and see what the near future is bringing.

[JohnP]

Chuck, if you want to know a few things about resin casting let me know. I have been getting good results with my techniques.

I'm going to be trying the PAP as well once I get my drawings done. Normally I build masters by hand with some laser cut parts but I have curved casting to make for an old iron bridge.

Y'all- for cheaper CAD look into TurboCad Deluxe. It works great in 2-D and is quite functional in 3-D for $130. I have been using it for about 7 years now. Not quite like SolidWorks but a good value.

John