• Welcome to Westlake Publishing Forums.
 

News:

    REGARDING MEMBERSHIP ON THIS FORUM: Due to spam, our server has disabled the forum software to gain membership. The only way to become a new member is for you to send me a private e-mail with your preferred screen name (we prefer you use your real name, or some variant there-of), and email adress you would like to have associated with the account.  -- Send the information to:  Russ at finescalerr@msn.com

Main Menu

1/2" Scale project still in progress (somehow)

Started by Chuck Doan, July 20, 2009, 08:55:32 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Tom Neeson

Quote from: Spencer Grant on May 13, 2010, 11:55:31 AM
For example, SOLIDWORKS, that Chuck mentions, normally cost $2,500 or more but is available as a student edition for $99.00 for one year. (can be renewed)


Spencer Grant



Does it come with instructions?   ;D
No Scribed Siding!

Chuck Doan

#331
Thanks for the info, John!

Here some quickie checkpics I took of my hanging sign. The triangular bracket is old school, made from 1/16 diameter brass tubing, .025 brass wire and a piece of .015 x .08 flat styrene. A couple of McLeod nut castings finished it off. I used several applications of Polly Scale paint to build up some slaggy weld joints where the pipes meet the wall mount.

The light bracket is all Rapid Prototype parts save for the brass wire conduit and the two Tichy .02 rivet "screws" I added to the junction box (with the obligatory slots cut in). The ratty wiring is based on several old signs I saw. I found examples with standard flexible conduit, but several others had either bare Romex or extension cord material which seemed much more interesting (if not up to code!) I made it with annealed .012 brass wire that was first painted with a smooth coat of Polly Scale black. Once it was wrapped and glued in place, I took the same paint and applied some thick clumpy coats to certain areas, and then picked at it with a sharp toothpick to simulate crumbling insulation.

The metal finish is the same hairspray method I have been using with the exception of a gray undercoat on the junction box to simulate a galvanized item. The mounts for the light shades were also done in bare galvy for some variety. I'll do the final touch-ups after I get the light shades painted and mounted. I haven't decided yet if there will actually be a sign or just a couple of empty hangers.









"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

lab-dad

Looks like the PAP parts worked great!
The failing insulation with paint is another great trick.
I must say though; the weathering on the alligator clip is not consistent with the rest of the model.
-Marty

Chuck Doan

#333
Yeah, it was probably dumb of me to print an alligator clip too!


Here are a couple of close-ups showing the kinds of layering apparent on the RP parts. It is inconsistant, and it varies in spacing from part to part. It may have to do with the part orientation when it is formed. The layers sand easily, but part designs should anticipate this need. The meter box is about 3/8" x ½".







"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

finescalerr

Okay, I'll be the first to ask: How do you sand those small parts without obliterating detail? -- Russ


Chuck Doan

#336
Thanks Franck!

Russ, I havent tried that meter disc yet, but for the other parts  I have just carefully hand sanded using fine flex sticks and bits of sandpaper held in an aligator clip (smooth jaw heat sink type) or tweezers. THis is why I have omitted bolt heads and made the meter back an insert rather than one piece. This is also why these are best as masters or low-volume use. It still beats from-scratch fabrication time by miles for me.

I wasn't anticipating using RP parts in this project at all and it has been a nice surprise.





"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

Fred H.

Chuck, based on this last post, I'm rethinking how I do that reefer ladder I've been working on. In 1:24 bolts/nuts can be pretty damn tiny, can't they?

marc_reusser

That sign bracket assembly and finish, absolutely floor me. Just stunning.


Thanks for the close-up of the PAP. I was thinking/wndering about the layers/stepping vs. orientation benefits the other night.


Marc
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

Ray Dunakin

That looks awesome, Chuck! I love the rotting insulation on the wire.
Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

finescalerr

Thanks for the answer, Chuck. I was hoping you had invented a faster or more efficient way to sand small parts but I guess it's just the usual meticulous drudgery.

Need I add my praise to what the others have written about the sign bracket?

Russ

Ken Hamilton

Ken Hamilton
www.wildharemodels.com
http://public.fotki.com/khamilton/models/

TRAINS1941

Chuck

I see you found your penny!!!  As for the parts just as always another excellent job and a great how I did it.

It is worth the time between posts to see more of your work.

Jerry
Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin

finescalerr

#343
It's probably worth pointing out here that Havard started a thread to draw attention to another rapid prototyping company. The examples on their site suggest cleaner output (less stepping and texture). -- Russ

JohnP

The sign bracket...it's...I just...Chuck your work makes me want to be there, feel the small dry breeze that gently moves the sign (you need a sign, man), listen to the squeak of the hangers as I cup my hands to the dirty window to look inside, wondering if anyone is around so I can go in and poke around for old bottles and magazines.

I think we need to be realistic about the 3D printers, especially folks offering services to the modeling community on the smaller, less costly machines. I'm finishing up drawing a couple iron castings that would have been complex to scratch. So I will accept the lines and take the time to smooth and prime them as a master for casting. It is a miracle machine for those parts like the lamp shades.

Chuck, I am wondering if you simply primered, painted and applied weathering, would those layer lines show?

John
John Palecki