1/2" Scale project still in progress (somehow)

[james_coldicott]

...another...

[james_coldicott]

...last one.

James

[Malachi Constant]

Well, Ed's oven door frame was related to the Print-a-Part issues ... I'm wandering a little off topic by replying to the specifics of oven doors ... (sorry) ... but here's some oven doors I did in O scale, cast in resin.  First photo shows the pattern.  Second shows the door in place with extra bits.  Crappy old photos before I got a decent digital camera.  But, if you end up needing O scale oven doors, I probably still have a mold and/or some extra castings for these.

Cheers,
Dallas

[marklayton]

Chuck -

You're most welcome!

How did you cut those test tubes?

mark

[Philip Smith]

Chuck -

You're most welcome!

How did you cut those test tubes?

mark

Chuck, from eyedroppers to test tubes. Your on the hard stuff now. 
Your little gravity pump looks nice! I cut eyedropper tubes with a dremel cut-off tool because I didn't have a diamond scriber like described on your flickr page. Worked great , just had to score all the way around several times and then dremel sand square.

Philip

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks James for those. Don't know why, but I just like those old pumps.

Mark, it was trial and error. The glass tube scriber I got was useless. The pressure required to make a mark shattered the tube. I tried the diamond scriber, got a nice line, but the "quick snap and clean break" promised by so many internet articles didn't happen-just more shattered glass.

I finally took the last remnant and ground back most of the jagged edge with a Dremel wheel like Phillip mentions. Then I put it in a plastic vee block and carefully sanded both ends square on my disc sander. That worked very well. I think these were glass as opposed to Pyrex.

I wore safety glasses and work gloves when handling-good thing too!

[DaKra]

In a book on WW1 trench warfare, I read about cutting glass bottles in to make candle holders and oil lamps by using a burning string and water.  Tie a string around the cut line, douse it in lighter fluid, light it up and dunk in water as soon as the string burns up.

Video here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_A4J7RcdsfM

[eTraxx]

Found this on Youtube .. Cutting wine bottles .. might be helpful

[Chuck Doan]

I read that method too Dave, but me and fire...

[eTraxx]

The Youtube vid is simply a light scribe and then hot water + cold water. Looks promising

[Chuck Doan]

Interesting Ed. So basically, score, hot water then cold water? Surprised he didn't wear gloves. The test tube has a wall thickness of about .03. i think a lot of methods I found are for thicker glass tubes.

[Chuck Doan]

I got the gas pump body primed and ready for final paint. First I added a number of "composite" items to the printed body. The Wayne 615 pump had an unusual "coat hook" style of nozzle hanger. Although I could have printed this piece, the .02 diameter hooks would have been lacking in strength and difficult to sand. Since I plan to hang the nozzle and likely heavy brass "hose" on this hook, I fabricated one from styrene strip and brass wires that were glued into holes drilled in the pump body.  A couple of NBW castings finished it off.

The prototype outer "skins" were joined by tabs held together with screws and nuts. I printed .01 x .03 slots in the body and fitted pieces of styrene strip into them to make the tabs. Tichy rivets (as round head screws) and Grandt NBW's were then added to each side.

I also added some I.D. tags (or builders plates) to the body using Scotch tape embossed with screw heads. I removed the adhesive with paint thinner and wound up with a plate that was .001 thick. These will be painted over as seen on many older pumps thus saving me the need to figure out a way to represent the tiny embossed lettering. Sometimes the lazy man dost prosper after all (or tries too).

Finally I added some base bolts using McLeod NBW castings. I had printed holes for the stems and they pressed right in.

Oh, and a few dents!

I primed the body with some flat black spray from a can. When it fully cures I will lightly sand the sheet metal "skins" smooth but leave the texture on the cast parts.

[TRAINS1941]

Chuck

Looks like you had a very good weekend.

Nice update and picture and thanks for the how to.

Jerry

[lab-dad]

I wish I had something intelligent to say other than "KOOL!" or "BITCHIN"
Oh well, as always impressed.
-Mj

[shropshire lad]

I wish I had something intelligent to say other than "KOOL!" or "BITCHIN"
Oh well, as always impressed.
-Mj

  " TRIFFIC " works well , try that .

  Nick