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1/2" Scale project still in progress (somehow)

Started by Chuck Doan, July 20, 2009, 08:55:32 AM

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TRAINS1941

So that's the best you could do over Labor Day weekend.  Now my head really hurts just thinking of you and your rust streaks.  Just how good are those about as good as it gets!!!

A Gas Pump that is becoming a thing of beauty.

Jerry
Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin

finescalerr

What you hear is the sound of one hand clapping. The other is typing this. -- Russ

FichtenFoo

I've been watching this topic for about a month now and love it. So much to learn from here. Great work!
Chicks dig giant robots.

chester

There is just no end to the great stuff coming from Mr. Doan (thank God)

RoughboyModelworks

There's really nothing I can add to what has already been expressed here by everyone else Chuck.... simply outstanding.

Paul

JohnP

I felt like leaving the post blank and signing my name. I do not know what to say. The perfection of finishing. Thanks for sharing all this Chuck.

John
John Palecki

lab-dad

just "spiffy"!
Really like the texture & finish on the pipes.

On the rust streaks; have you tried using artist oils? I put a small dab at the bottom where I want the streak to start then using another brush with just a little thinner on it drag it through the spot. I find doing this w/ the oils is very controllable.
-Marty

Chuck Doan

Thanks all! It's turning out to be a fun sub project.

Thanks for the idea, Marty. I'm worried about using the thinner for the oils. The exposed chips are enamel, and the white is acrylic with a Lacquer overcoat. Not sure what thinner would do, :o and I'm not much of a gambler.

Got some branding done though. An N scale Microscale signpost decal is a perfect 12" wide in my scale.
I'll try for better pics this weekend (sans effects), if the decal is still stuck.








"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

Craig_H

Chuck,   The mobil sign is looking good ;)    Craig

FichtenFoo

Chuck: I had an enamel issue with chips on my motel sign. I'm not used to using them and I basecoated it with Color Place flat black spraypaint from Walmart. Under $1 a can and goes on great! I applied a Mig Filter over my post-hairspray chipped finish and their harsh thinner started to eat away the basecoat. I almost had to restart the painting, but caught it quick enough that I was able to clean up the mess.

What I did find that works though for thinning oils over that spraypaint is Weber Odorless Turpenoid (hereby known as OT). (blue can from Michaels) I sprayed some scrap with just the black spraypaint, let it cure 24 hours and started scrubbing it with pure OT and a toothbrush. I scrubbed for about a minute before a ever-so-slight tackiness began. And even with a wash of the stuff left to sit or working with a soft brush there was no issues.

Give that stuff a shot on scrap of course and see if that works for you. My usual mineral spirits and the Mig thinners and wash/filter products (that use their thinner) are too harsh.
Chicks dig giant robots.

Chuck Doan

Thanks Craig!

Thanks Micheal, I will look into that stuff. How long do the oils take to dry?
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

lab-dad

Sorry, did not realise about the thinner issues.
I usually leave the oils for very near the end, but in a day or two they seem dry (I never tried to touch them).
supposedly they take a long time to dry, but I never use that much.

Decal is kickin' what you do to it?
I want to try air erasing one....
-Marty

FichtenFoo

No Prob! The dry time usually depends on the thickness of the oils. If you're painting figures for example with straight oils then the dry time can be days to a week depending on heat and humidity. For what we do weathering wise, a day or two is usually sufficient. They'll feel dry after a few hours, but can still be worked with thinners until completely dry which is why one would have to wait a few.
Chicks dig giant robots.

Chuck Doan

#568
Thanks for the info, guys. I have it bolted it to a flat plate for now, so I should be able to keep my mitts off it. Maybe a trip to Michaels tonite!

Marty, the decal process:

Draw cracks with pencil onto decal
cut cracks with sharp xacto but leave some attached-dont cut the full crack to help keep it together.
sand with 1200 grit (dry of course) to fade, soda blast on low PSI should work too
cut out and apply a few coats of Dullcote spray
wet and apply
wonder what the hell you were thinking of all these fricken pieces goin everywhere!
settle and smooth out with damp brush, toothpick, some cursing
use a touch of setting solution.
remember this is supposed to be fun!



"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

Ray Dunakin

Sounds like that decal was a real pain, but the results sure paid off!
Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World