1/2" Scale project still in progress (somehow)

[Mr Potato Head]

Any university chemistry department or any local artisan that blows glass, here in little 'Ol Boise there is a store that sells glass supplies and teaches classes, I am sure you have one somewhere close to you.
Just a thought
Gil
in exile in the home of the national co-champion undefeated Boise State Broncos

[Chuck Doan]

For what it's worth, a method for concrete frosted rocks:



First I glued rock fragments to a piece of wood using carpenters yellow glue.


Then I slathered some Hydrocal around the top to create an even edge. I added grout between the rocks using wallboard joint compound mixed with Arizona powders applied heavy with a brush.  I wiped the rock faces with a damp sponge. I then added spacers to the piece of wood...


Which, when inverted, serve to space the rocks above the top of the cement slab. My tooling is usually quick and dirty due to my impatience.


This is the form for the Hydrocal. I made two sides removable for easy mold release. This was originally the form I used to do the large porch slab.


And these are the rocks sitting in the wet Hydrocal mix. I used approx. 2/3 hydrocal and 1/3 Arizona powders and a bunch of Woodland Scenic fine grey ballast.


This is what it looks like removed from the forms after an hour or so. There was a small leak in one side of the form that caused the exposed aggregate, but since I was trying for crumble-create, this was acceptable.


And after drying and some chipping and soda blasting.


And then after coloring. For the concrete I used grey Bragdon Powders applied heavy and wet with a sponge. Then I slowly took it back with a clean damp sponge. For the rock grout I applied some heavy dry Bragdon powders (grey and brown) across everything and then carefully wiped off the excess with a damp sponge. Everything is just temporarily set in place. All pieces will receive some final touch up after they are attached to the base.

[mobilgas]

Chuck,      Thanks for the ..How to... on doing the porch.  Turned out great    Craig

[Gordon Ferguson]

Thanks for this really useful SBS - I have always struggled with concrete both the look and the colour, hopefully if I follow your instructions & practice I may get some better results.

As always will look forward to your next  posts Chuck.

[finescalerr]

The project turned out beautifully. Now I have a question about where the structure meets the steps:

First, would there be gaps, as in the photo, or would a carpenter have nailed a kickboard or done some other kind of work along the bottom edge of the siding?

Second, on a structure where they may not have hosed off the porch very often (if ever), do you still need to adjust the coloration of the boards meeting the cement to reflect the effects of puddling or absorbed moisture?

Two or three years ago I might never have thought of such questions but, after studying your other models and the comments of our more observant participants, I'm beginning to notice such details. So how about it, Boy Wonder? How do you plan to handle those issues?

Russ

[Chuck Doan]

I have seen many examples where the siding comes right down to the cement, Batman, so that is what I am going to do. (Holy Clapboards!) You are correct, I will be adding new, more surface weathered pieces there, since the original plan had them up above the grade, and there also won't be the same gaps. Unless I decide to something completely different.

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Craig and Gordon! If the coloring came out, it was luck. Concrete color is hard to do!

[marc_reusser]

JUST SPLENDID CHUCK!


Russ:

.....on a structure where they may not have hosed off the porch very often (if ever), do you still need to adjust the coloration of the boards meeting the cement to reflect the effects of puddling or absorbed moisture?

Yes, as the heating (from the daytime sun) and cooling (the cool and moist night air) and moisture absorption and retention differences between the concrete and wood at this point tends to cause a harsher environmental condition for the wood.

First, would there be gaps, as in the photo, or would a carpenter have nailed a kickboard or done some other kind of work along the bottom edge of the siding?

This would all depend on the builder/carpenter at the time. Unlike today, and esp. on these types of rural structures, there were no  applicable building codes and requirements. It is possible that the builder at best would have had some forethought and put some tin/galv or building paper for flashing between the wood framing behind the siding and concrete....but again, this was up to the builder and most often unlikely in these types of structures. It would also depend heavily on how the foundations and slabs were configured and in what sequence they were erected. Also coming into play is whether the porch as shown would have been original to the building, or a later addition (or was the porch and foundation re-used from an earlier maybe burnt down building..or a building with a different function)...and then again what the builders whims and knowledge were at the time. Though there were construction standards/rules of thumb....on much of this type of rural period architecture, most everything was "purpose built"...it needed to perform the required task in the most expedient, efficient, and cost conscious manner.....and it is often difficult to determine the actual sequencing and assembly method from the photos without a forensic field investigation.


MR

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks Marc!

I got some Silfor delivered today for some green grass trials. Of course I remembered after placing the order that we are in a drought and dead grass would be more politically correct.

[finescalerr]

Dead grass would only be politically correct if your model is supposed to be in Southern California, Boy Wonder. Since you said it's from farther north, you are not only politically but environmentally correct to use green grass. (I think your mask is too tight and has cut off blood circulation to your brain.) -- Batman

[Chuck Doan]

No, it's those damn green tights!

I did notice that the Buffalo grass is way less shiny than the Silflor grass mats I had before. With those I used Dullcoat spray to take back the shine, but this new stuff is quite nice out of the box.

[lab-dad]

Looks great, and thanks for the SBS.

FWIW I have used Vallejo (tans & earth) to "dry out" the ends of the grasses before & after planting.

-Marty

[Ray Dunakin]

Nice! I think you've really nailed the color and texture of old concrete.

[TRAINS1941]

Chuck

Beautiful!  The best colored concrete I'v ever seen.

Jerry

[mobilgas]

Chuck,    Here's one for your garage    A-lot of garages-service stations used them in there business.      Hey Paul, does this make you happy??                            Craig