Bits, Pieces, & Clutter

[Malachi Constant]

Well, I think I've discovered the easiest way to get custom work from Dave at www.VectorCut.com -- just ask him to do the "same thing" in a different scale!     

If anybody else wants the auto parts in 1/35, just contact Dave thru his web site ... these parts aren't listed there, but he obviously has the artwork file on hand now ... and I'm sure he'd be happy to make more.  I don't get any kick-backs from that, but I do want him to still be in a good mood the next time I make a crazy request. 

Thanks Dave!
-- Dallas

[FichtenFoo]

Interesting stuff at VectorCut... Do you know if he does bulk custom stuff? Would be interesting to know if that sort of service is available if I ever needed it for a future release.

[Malachi Constant]

Dave's a member of this forum -- his screen name is "DaKra" here -- so look for one of his posts and you can send him a PM or email thru his web site.  Dunno the answer, but he's a friendly guy who does really fine laser work ... and I'm sure he'll enjoy a look at your crazy wonderful fish kit!

PS -- Have a look at his laser thread here:
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1055

Cheers,
Dallas

[lab-dad]

Geee....that stuff in 1:48 would be kinda kool........
-Marty

[Malachi Constant]

Marty --

Go here:
http://www.vectorcut.com/accessoriesO.htm

... scroll down ... click "add to cart" ... wait by mailbox! 

Cheers,
Dallas

[JohnP]

Dave does laser work that is not commonly accomplished. You can see that in his selection of goodies for sale. He is helped me with parts for my bridge in the resin casting thread. And I am trying to think of other more interesting and challenging stuff to try. Send him an email or message if you have a project in mind.

John

[finescalerr]

I guess the Big Picture aspect of all this is beginning to emerge: An artist with an output device (e.g., laser cutter, 3-D printer, CNC mill, etc.) probably could supplement his income by taking on a lot of custom projects, then add those items to his product line. Look at all the interest we've had in Dave's work and in PrintAPart. This might start some of you rascals thinking about retirement businesses .... -- Russ

[clevermod01]

I've only just explored this thread today and I'm amazed at the great ideas/ I love the watercolor paper. I'm going to run some through my printer with our stone wall texture and see what kind of results i can get.

[Gordon Ferguson]

Not to sure where to post this so puting it here, somebody higher up the food chain can move it if know of a better home for it.

Virgil Suarez, posted on the MIG forum details of a new crackle paint he had used, Ranger's "Distress Crackle Paint" I ordered some of this last week and have started to experiment with it.

When you open the pot I can only describe it as very thick and gloppy, although of the 4 colours I ordered all seem to have a different viscosity.

First picture is the stuff used straight out of the pot, applied to a little shed I have spare (Russ for you the planks are 80lb watercolour paper) , have to say thought I was just applying a thick coat of filler but after it dried . about an hour it did not look to bad. Then gave the surface a thin wash of Windsor & Newton Burnt Sienna Ink to highlight the cracks. As you can see it does what it says on the tin , very fine cracks certainly pretty near scale for 1/24 at least. Each plank is  about 4mm, 1/8th" wide



I then tried it thinned down with water, ratio is about 50/50 ......... this time no real sign of crackling. Because I was working a textured paper it is difficult to say whither or not the paint had added to the texture although the corner post which is balsa does show some sign of crackling



Need to do some proper experiment on a smooth surface with different mixture ratios to see if I can achieve crackling at a viscosity that ideally I can spray

[Malachi Constant]

Gordon --

Thanks for sharing that ... looks like there's some potential there.  On the manufacturer's site, they indicate that you should add just a touch of water with a fine mist sprayer if needed.  Also indicate that if you want to speed the drying, instead of heat, direct COOL air to the unpainted side:

http://www.rangerink.com/tips/tips_distresscrackle.htm

They also have yet another version of "ye olde scratching tool" which might be handy to add to the mix:
http://www.rangerink.com/products/prod_tonic_craft-scratcher.htm

Cheers,
Dallas

[finescalerr]

As a first attempt the results are good. I think, as you become more familiar with how to use the paint, it may provide impressive results. -- Russ

[marc_reusser]

If I may be so bold as to add my two cents...as Virgil noted, the thinned approach is what you want....BUT...I think the paper is possibly causing you some issues with absorbing the moisture from the paint,...you might want to consider possibly first coating the wall with a thin layer of matte varnish, to seal the surface....this should help the crackle effect.


Marc

[Gordon Ferguson]

Valid points Marc

I will do some more controlled experiments over next few days and post under Weathering & Painting Techniques

I intend to use a white plastic base, with a black acrylic primer sprayed on, brush and sponge applications, and with different ratios of dilution. I also would like to try spraying over the crackle effect to see if it still shows to increase the colour options. I will also try to see if applying heat to increase speed of drying has any significant effect.

Any other variations anybody can think of ?

[Malachi Constant]

Gordon --

The manufacturer's tips say suggest using COOL air on the back (unpainted) side of the object rather than heat ... so you might want to add that variation to your tests.

Look forward to your results ... based on your preliminary work, I've ordered a couple of the colors and one of their scratchy brushes.

Cheers,
Dallas

[Ray Dunakin]

I'd be interested in finding out how it does on other surfaces, such as primered styrene.