Bits, Pieces, & Clutter

[michael mott]

The Clay that Gordon is using is the same clay that potters use "stoneware" it shrinks approx 5% if left to air dry. then when fired shrinks some more as the molecular water is driven off in the firing process.
One problem that I can see is that unless it is sealed completely after drying it will absorb moisture, and can re-soften in a humid environment.
The air drying modeling clays are not the same.

The modelling clay that Gordon is using is only "permanent" after firing, first to cone o6 a Bisque firing which makes the clay durable to absorb the glazes, (similar to a red clay flowerpot)  and then fired to cone 10 when it is vitrified and basically stone again.

Regards Michael 

[Malachi Constant]

Gordon --

Thanks for going the "extra mile" with the new demo piece and SBS photos -- bravo!  Clearly illustrates (a) the "simplicity" of the method and (b) how far it can go when you take the time to add those special touches.  Very nice.

Cheers,
Dallas

[marc_reusser]

What kind of brush did you use for the "brushing" of the surface/raised edges.

In real life it was usual to fill in the joint with a pitch/bitumen mix .......... anybody got any bright ideas how I should do that  .... I was wondering about black tile grout after the setts have been painted and sealed

Maybe try the Hudson & Allen "Asphalt" product...I have never used it, but have a bag in my stores. It's a black powder of some ilk, that you could probably mix with Gesso or Matte-Medium....maybe PVA. (I'll see if there are any instructions on the bag when I get to the workshop).  I think grout, even unsanded, might likely be too matte and granular to represent a Bitumen/tar type material.

Just curious....is the bitumen between cobbles a British method, because I do not recall seeing it anywhere on "the Continent", unless it was residue from where a later asphalt road surface was peeling.  The cobbles I recall all seemed to be tight set or sand/dirt set.

[mad gerald]

Just curious....is the bitumen between cobbles a British method, because I do not recall seeing it anywhere on "the Continent", unless it was residue from where a later asphalt road surface was peeling.  The cobbles I recall all seemed to be tight set or sand/dirt set.

... we do have it over here too ... or at least had it - as the bitumen tends to extend and shrink permanently (even in this part of the northern hemisphere) so perhaps the reconditioning seems to time consuming nowadays ... 

Cheers

[Gordon Ferguson]

Michael,

you are quiet right , there is shrinkage and even when dry the clay can be on the soft side. Think I have got away with it due the fact that any cracking due to shrinkage tends to follows the the impressed lines. I usually give the dried clay a coat of well thinned PVA glue which soaks into the clay which hardens it up and also reduces its tendency to absorb further moisture.

Marc,

Brushes



Top to bottom ......nylon bristle brush, comes as a set of three from the Pound shop, probably not too many of those in Pasadena, CA.

Next , hogs hairs brush

Bottom stiff stencil brush

Use the hogs hair one initially to clean out debris , nylon brush used in a gentle circular motion when clay is dry to round of edges. If really well worn cobbles needed then stencil brush is used.

Tar / Pitch seems to have been the product used historically certainly in the UK but gradually fell into disuse as traffic speed/loads increased.

This is my favourite site for info in this area

http://www.pavingexpert.com/jointing09.htm

Seen this guys work and he the paving equivalent of Nick the Brick in terms of workmanship and skill 

[Gordon Ferguson]

Having now found myself with a half done base thought I had better try and do something with it.
Added some kerb stones and pavement slabs, clay again, none of its painted yet and its still got loose sand as a temporary fill  ................. the drain was made with some of Vectorcut's new grating sheet (0.030" holes)

[finescalerr]

That could have turned out a lot worse .... -- Russ

[Malachi Constant]

Well, that answers the curb question ... and, after a quick look at the VectorCut web site, I find that Dave has a bunch of new things that I gotta get.  PS:  You sure do get rolling on these things!  -- Dallas

[finescalerr]

Suggestion to Dave: Please update us on your latest creations. -- Russ

[Gordon Ferguson]

Just to bring this to a conclusion here is the base painted.
I painted the clay with acrylics, sealed with a mist coat of Dullcote, joint lines filled in with DIY filler( tinted slightly for the slabs, coloured v very dark grey for the cobbles ) then dusted with MIG pigments.

Sorry for the colour difference in the photos, think the camera's on the way out?





Overall think the technique works reasonably well for the cobbles , but not for the pavement slabs .......... with these think a better way would be to score the joint lines after the clay is dry , doing it before the gaps get too wide due to the shrinkage factor

[shropshire lad]

 Gordon ,

  I think this little diorama base has turned out very well and the colouring in the last photos looks spot on .

   Good job ,

   Nick

[Frederic Testard]

I love these cobbles - and their colour. I also love that you decided to add the 2CV to it, even if it still requires a bit of work.

[David Emery]

Depending on the type of stone you're trying to model...  I've gotten some really good effects by stipple-brushing pigments/weathering powders on stone.  It adds that subtle variation you see in a lot of granite, etc.

dave

[finescalerr]

The clay base is most satisfactory.

Maybe the color shift is a result of your camera's auto white balance algorithms. All digital cameras try to use white, black, and neutral gray to determine a proper color and exposure. If you shoot the same object against green, white, black, or red it often will exhibit different coloration.

Russ

[marc_reusser]

Bloody fabulous!

I will most definitely have to give this a go.