OOB? (Improvised Modeling)

[Chuck Doan]

The best! I'll bet no one else comes as close in this catagory. OOB redefined!

CD

[marc_reusser]

Well after a few margaritas tonight, I remebered that every tank needs to have a bucket hanging on the back ....so...

After two tries and two hours of work, I finally got one that I think is passable/useable. The side is made from primer coated paper from the instruction sheet, the Bottom is cardboard from the box lid, the details and handles are from streched sprue. The bucket is just under 3/8" tall. The top edge seam was sealed/filled with "Mr. Surfacer 500", thus the somewhat wobbly/uneven appearing edge.



I think once its all painted and weathered it should work/look ok.

Marc

[finescalerr]

What did you use to form the tapered cylinder? And, more importantly, how did you hide the seam where the paper edges overlap? -- Unc

[marc_reusser]

Two concentric circle/arc lines were cut to create the piece for the walls. This was then slightly lapped at the ends (about 1/64-1/32") and glued with super glue. It was quite fussy to get it to sit right, and not kink the paper while working with it...hence the two tries ....the second time I somewhat "pre-shaped/curved" the paper strip over a round tapered brush  handle. Seam was held together with fine sharp tweezers till the glue dried.



I actually wanted the seam overlap to show....some of the old prototype buckets have pretty heavy seams. I lightly thinned the paper at the edges using a 400grit sanding stick, before gluing.

Marc

[marc_reusser]

I needed some pieces of corrugated metal for clutter on the base......and went about adapting the technique posted in this thread,  http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=15.0 in the "Tips & Tricks" section.

This is for 1/35, so dimensions/sizes will need to be adapted for other scales. for the "metal" I am utilizing cut pieces of the instruction sheet, that heve benn thoroughly brushed/soaked on both sides with dilluted Liquitex "Matte Medium". My thought being that the matte mediun will act as both a stiffener, and reduce the surface fuzz of the paper.

Two form halves were made using .050 styrene sheet. Onto which were glued .080" rods spaced at .060". This gives me pretty much a a prototypical 2-1/2" center to center corrugation. The spaced between the rods were filled using .060 x .040 styrene strips. This would strengthen and stabilize the round rods, and give me a positive "depth limit" stop on the corrugation.



The original intent was to merely sandwich the soaked piece of paper between the two forms....but this proved to be problematic due to the way the paper develeps tension as it has to lay into the lower form grooves as the upper form is pressed into place. So I layed one edge of the soaked paper square on to, and lightly laid it across the form. I then began at one side and pressed individual .080" styrene rods into the grooves. Once these were all in place I weighted them down. [At this point I could have remover the rods, and just pressed the other form half in their place....but I decided this way the air would circulate better for the paper to dry, and I could do another piece in the other half of the form.]



This photo shows the paper dry in the form with the rods removed.



This image shows the dried corrugated paper removed from the form, and ready for paint with airbrush, and weathering.




This same template and method is easily used on thin alum., brass, and copper for real metal roofing.



Marc

[marc_reusser]

...okay...next step......

I knew that I was going to need some rubble and bricks to scatter on the base....so....

Here are the two components that willl become the rubble. On the left are all the smmall corner pieces that I cut off the street pavers. On the right are sprue pieces that have been finely chopped with a razor blade.



These were then mixed together in a small plastic tray. To this was added som 95% Isopropyl Alcohol, a couple of drops of Valley paint, and MIG Powders.....then all stirred together till evrything had good color coverage.
At this point the stuff is all sort if in lumpy balls.....it was then placed under a desk light to dry......while drying I used a small spatula to constanly move  it around and break it apart....till I acheived this.....



....next the bricks......

Marc

[TRAINS1941]

Marc
.........WOW........  I think I'll need help after this you are just going so far outside the box.  Just outstanding I still can't wait to see this all done.

Jerry

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Jerry....I hope the "sum" will be as good/interesting as it's "parts".   

I realize that this type of stuff is easier to do in larger scales like this...but I think I will be able to carry a good bit of it over into 1/48" RRing. Especially the finishing techniques.

Marc

[marc_reusser]

As a change of pace from carving bricks...here is something else I am messing around with....a pair of old boots. These were made using the feet/boots of the enclosed figure. They were first drilled/routed out using a small round Dremel cutting bit. Unfortunately the kit boots are too short, as they are intended to be partially hidden by the figures pants.....so I needed to make them taller. Using some plastic shavings (from the figure torso), softend in liqud cement, and some putty, new uppers were shaped. Here they are seen with a coat of Mr Surfacer. Why the Mr surfacer dried shiney I have no idea  



Not perfect.......but I guess I'm ok with them....they do look a bit better when not seen in such macro. I was thinking of hanging them on the tank with some streched sprue shoelaces......or I can leave one laying in the rubble on the street...not sure yet....a lot will depend on how bad my paintjob on them is  



Marc

[finescalerr]

You are unhappy with THOSE?? -- Russ

[marc_reusser]

Well....lets  just say im not hopping around my workbench with glee.

[marc_reusser]

Ok... and now the individual bricks and brick pieces that will be mixed in with the rubble.

The bricks were made using the torso of the figure. The torso was first planed to a block that had the proper brick cross section/dimension. In this case 4" x 8".



This was then sliced into individual bricks (like bread slices). Using an X-acto knife and a Mission Models chisel, these were then cut, reworked and sculpted, to give the appearance of older/damaged/rubble brick.



The finished bricks. The bricks were dry-brushed and "dabbed" with a mixture of Tamiya Acrylics (XF-9 'Hull Red', XF-68 'Nato Brown') and Vallejo Acrylics (#821 'German WW2 Camouflage Beige', #829 'Light Brown'), then lightly dusted with MIG Powder (#PO38 African Earth). The grout was made with a mixture of powdered Rembrandt pastel ('Raw Umber'), Vallejo Acrylics (#821 'German WW2 Camouflage Beige'), and MIG Powder (PO35 'Panzer Grey Fading'), and Windsor Newton Gouache ('Zinc White'), stirred till a thick paste was created, then stippled onto the brick pieces on the sides where mortar would occur.



Marc

[Chuck Doan]

I think you may need a photo of the figure in "mid plane" to convince the judges. I wonder if anyone else has gone to this level.

The bricks are terrific!

CD

[TRAINS1941]

Just outstanding the bricks well you know really look real.  Or are they real and we do nice camera work!  Just kidding Marc just another great job.

Jerry

[marc_reusser]

Not much time for modeling today.....just some small stuff....

I wanted the appearance of an old used galvanized bucket that had developed surface oxidation, and had seen heavy use in a variety of tasks. Coloring was done with an initial Brush applied coat of a pale blue Humbrol matt enamel (#23), when dry this was lightly sprayed with a coat of Tamiya spray paint (TS-27 'Matte White'), this was folloewd by several light washes of Windsor Newton Artists Oils ('Ivory Black' , "Burt Umber"). These were followed with washes of Vallejo acrylics (#869 'Basalt Grey', # 862 'Black Grey)...while not fully dry Bragdon's rust powders were applied, and blended into the acrylic washes with a water dampened brush. Lastly the bucket was given a pin wash of 'Ivory Black'  in the seams and details, with a very light dusting of Doc O'Briens Grungy Gray" weathering powder.




And the beginings of some scrap steel for the ruble. This was made from leftover PE sheet and plastic sprue.



Marc