5x5x7 project (1/35 scale)

[jacq01]

 
   

Contrary to what Gil assumes, it was done outside, wearing long sleeves, gloves, goggles and a respirator with a 'gas' filter.

 

  Marc etching corrugated or: The modern modeler, during small Finescale RR projects   

  Marc, looks very good, luckily I have finished most of the mill's roof...

Jacq

[marc_reusser]

Ooooh....I have to get me a mask like that!

....looks very good, luckily I have finished most of the mill's roof...

It's never too late to tear it all off and start over if you want...


MR

[marc_reusser]

Posted by: gfadvance
........ but you have seen most of the crane photos and the quality is not there

Oh what total BS.   And speaking of the crane.....what's happening with the painting on that?

MR

[Gordon Ferguson]

Oh what total BS.   And speaking of the crane.....what's happening with the painting on that?

MR

Right that's me sorted out and put in my place ................. OK will post not SBS but at least the sequence of the crane build tomorrow, and its still not painted as I can't make up my mind what colour to paint it?

You could not possibly be having a dig at me for not finishing a model, .......... no you wouldn't never think that way 

[Marc988]

OK...here goes.

Nothing earth shattering or new, but this is how it is starting.

Baswood is cut and sanded to the desired sizes. Some scores are drawn lengthwise along the boards/grain. Additional grain is then added using the Micro-Mark Wire brush. fine steel wool is then used to remove any fuzz (being careful not to round the edges.

Hi Marc,

I checked the Micro-Mark website but there seem to be 2 variants. One with a brass and one with a steel (?) brush.
Could you help me out which one to use ? Based on the picture I suspect the steel (?) version, but I want to be sure before I order one.

Thanks in advance,
Marc B

[lab-dad]

I would get the steel and the brass!
I use the steel all the time, wish I had got the brass also.
When you order get the fiberglass one too (and refills!)
-Marty

[Gordon Ferguson]

Sure Marc R will give you a full and detailed answer but in my experience the steel one works better on both wood and plastic ... I find the brass too soft to work effectively.

Would agree with Marty get all three ... the steel for "graining", brass for burnishing ... really good on white metal kits and the glass fibre for cleaning/ burnishing plastic ... especially useful for rounding nuts cut from plastic and taking the edge off plastic plates/strips where you may have a slight raised edge after cutting, etc.

Oh, and also agree about ordering some spares while you are at it

[marc_reusser]

Well...seems that everything has been answered ship shape.

I like the steel....hate the brass (to soft for my needs...and I have no idea what "burnishing brass" is).

Definitely get the fiberglass one, along with refills. The fiberglass one is one of those indespensible tools on my bench...I use it constantly for anything from fine sanding, sharpening/cleaning of detail areas, ...to cleaning "grained" wood and styrene. I also use a lot to clean any shiny residue left on styrene surfaces from the liquid solvent, and as Gordon mentioned to easing edges, and corners...esp. on punched rivets. I even use it to clean brass surfaces and solder joints. Definitely one of those  "must have" tools...that once you start really using it you cant see how you managed without.

One major caveat though....this is fiberglass, and produces tiny little glass splinters, that can be really irritating when they get in your skin (or if you have pets into them and their system). I always make sure to work over either my waste bin, or over a piece of paper that I then fold up and dispose of. If you work over a cutting mat, make sure you brush the remaining splinters into the trash before resting your hands on it, and instead of blowing the splinters off the model piece use a spare soft brush to brushh them off into the waste bin. (It's a great tool to let the kids get hold of...once they get those splinters in them, they will surely think twice about touching stuff on your bench again.)


MR

[RoughboyModelworks]

I agree... that fibreglass eraser is extremely useful. You can also pick them up at some auto parts stores and auto-body suppliers, often at a much better price. Worth checking. They're great for cleaning up brass prior to and after soldering, removing corrosion, paint, glue, fine texturing, easing edges... just about anything. Auto-body guys use them for feathering out chips in paint and so on prior to touch up.

And yes, definitely watch out for the splinters. They are incredibly painful and being so small and clear, hard to locate to fish out of your fingers. Like Marc, I work over a piece of scrap paper to catch the splinters. It's much easier than trying to clean the workbench off afterwards and speaking from experience, I always missed the one splinter that perhaps days later would leap up and stab me... 

Paul

[LeOn3]

@ Marc B

Piet Peetoom of GMenS also sells the fiberglass eraser. He is also on Ontraxs this weekend in Utrecht. Maybe he might also have one with brass, but that you'd better ask him.

Leon

[marc_reusser]

I decided to switch gears on this one for a bit and start work on the skip, that the body will sit on.

The first part will be doing the skip frame. This will consist of 4 pieces of .010" (.254mm) thick styrene.

The top and bottom pieces will be cut from sheet styrene. While the intermediate/vertical pieces will be .156" and .125" strip styrene.




The vertical pieces will be used to create two a stepped 'ring" of sorts.  The bottom piece is to be set onto a flat surface, into which (along the interior edge/face) is glued the .156" strip. Once this had set, I the  to piece will be slipped over the 'ring', the assembly flipped over, the ring and top piece pressed flush with eachother and glue apllied. Once this had set the .125 strip will be inserted and wrapped between the top and botom pieces, tight/laminated to,  the already in place .156 'ring'. this will en effect result in a stepped/interlocing joint that will provide added strength.




This will be the resuting frame. The seam line shown between the top/bottom pieces and the vertical .156 'ring" will not be visible on the finished piece.



The resulting frame section scales out to about 5.75" tall and 3" deep/wide.


MR

[Ray Dunakin]

Interesting construction! How do you plan to shape the vertical components?

[marc_reusser]

I built the part tonight (pictures will follow at some point)....worked OK....some stuff learned for next time.


Ray:
I did the inside (.156") vertical pice by cutting a strip that was just slightly longer than I was going to need. The bottom pece was set onto a steel plate. One end of the vertical piece was then set vertically against the inside of the bottom piece, and held vertical (& tight) to the interor edge of the bottom with a small machinists block, while liquid cement was applied. [I loosly rolled the entire strip so that it would fit coumpleteli inside the bottom piece, thus eliminating any 'parallel/flush issues when gluing]. I then worked around the bottom piece gluing the strip in place....on straight sections  I used the block, in the radius corners I used a suitably sized piece of steel rod, to hold the strip vertical and in place till set. when I got back to the beginning, I just carefully cut the strip to fit.

After the initial .156 piece was set, the rest was pretty easy and straight forward...the top was slid on and glued in place, the inner strip (.125) was wrapped and glued in place, making sure to have the joint at an end, so that it will be hidden by the coupler/buffer assembly. [you want to glue the top and bottom in place before you add the .125 strip, as it will create/hold the proper form/shape...if you wrap the .125 strip before the top, you will will bond/fix in place any flex and natural distortion of the .156 strip and the ensuing tension of the .125 strip,  thus never getting the top piece to properly seat or contain the flex without gaps or deforming........at least not when working with really thin material.)


BTW...this approach could easily be used to build skip frames out of cardstock....esp. if they were laser cut.


MR

[finescalerr]

The rendering looks so good, building the thing would seem an anticlimax. Very clever construction. -- Russ

[lab-dad]

Did you cut the top & bottom pieces by hand?
-Mj