5x5x7 project (1/35 scale)

[lab-dad]

Marc,
Good stuff!
What color(s) are the inside of the bucket?
Did you solder the seam or glue?
-Marty

[Mr Potato Head]

I think its time for another Reusser Productions Video! When can we expect that?
The Shovel is just unbelievable! We need some SBS on all these details or a video please
Great job, really!
Gil

[Franck Tavernier]

Wow Marc, wonderful job! I like very much the render of polished rusty metal on these tools...You can find too PE bucket from Plus Model :



Franck

PS : 1:35 scale is also a nice scale for detailed scenes 

[DaKra]

Just checked this thread first time in a while.  Marc, those are excellent surface treatments you've developed for aged wood and metal.  The chipping, wear, grime, fading and oxidation, all very believable and natural looking.   

Dave

[marc_reusser]

Thanks for all the kind and encouraging words...much appreciated...keeps me from slipping into total madness.

The one cool thing about doing a variety of small parts like this is that it really lets you experiment with some variations on techniques, and build your skills in quick short exercises....thus for me...actually finishing something...even if it's only a 1/2" long.

Don,
......and I just ran out of shoeboxes.  


Marty,
The Bucket was soldered. I used paste solder and a torch...worked like a dream.
The interior is painted (airbrushed) with Tamiya XF-54 "Sea Grey", then given a slight pin wash in the ridges and bottom corners using ABT-502 "Wash Brown", then the whole interior was given dusted with a mix of Bragdons "Dust Bowl Brown" & "Grimy Gray"....which was then sealed in place with some MIG "Pigment Fixer" (mostly to hold the larger amount of "dirt" in the bottom, in place).

Outside of bucket was airbrushed with Vallejo #837 "Sand Light", and chipped using Vallejo #867 "Dark Blue Grey".....then pin washed with the ABT-502 oils.


Gil,
No videos for me....my middle name is not "hollywood". The shovel was blackened with "Blacken-it", then painted with Vallejo acrylics, the dirt is a layerd application of MIG & CMK pigments fixed in place with MIG "Pigment fixer, which when dry, was then scrubbed off with my finger tip to expose the bare white-metal below.


Franck,
...aughhh...more buckets to try! .....they actually look the same as the Aber set (but whoever built the ones for the photo below seemed to have even a harder time of it than I did )....

The polished metal was done using MIG "Gunmetal" pigment, applied with my fingertip or a small make-up sponge.

....and I don't know what the word "scene" means   ......maybe something like "They can be scene if you look in the box in my cabinet/closet" ?



MR

[Tom Neeson]

Marc,
    How do you apply the "fixer", is it brushed on over the powders? Do you like it? Does it alter the look of the powders at all? Just received a couple of pigment sets and want to order some more 502 Abt oils, wondering if I should get the fixer while I am at it.

Thank you and nice little bits you have created there,
Tom

[marc_reusser]

Tom,

I have not used it extensively, but so far I like the fixer and have had no problems with it. For thicker layers/amounts of pigment like on the shovel or in the bucket corners I found that it sometimes helps to do it in 2 or so layered applications [IE. Pigment>Fixer>Dry, then repeat).  The fixer is a petroleum based product (as it notes that it is flammable) so you might need to seal models that are painted with oil based paints like Humbrol or Model-Master, with an acrylic clear coat prior to applying (can't say for sure though, as I havent run into this), It dries completely matte, and does not seem to change the color of the pigments......though that might change depending on the pigments used. I pretty much use only MIG, CMK, Bragdons, with the occasional Agama & Andrea...and all have worked fine. So far I have also had no issues with "rings/edges" when it dries (like one often gets from Turpentine).

I apply it with a soft brush (size depending on task/area), I soak up some of the fixer into the brush, then touch the brush to the edge(s) of the area/surface I want to fix the pigment on, and let it wick/flow out onto the surface and into/through the pigments. On big surfaces you may have to do this from a couple of sides/points.


Bottom line, I would recommend it, and suggst you try it. (If you don't like it, I'll buy it from you.)

On that note, I also really like the ABT-502 oils...so far in the applications I have used them, they driy almost completely matte (except for the "Grease & Oil" color, which dries with a sheen.


...one more thing re. the fixer.....I have also mixed a small amount directly with some pigments (in a small tin/lid) and then stippled the micture onto surface to create a heavier, chunky, or textured look. If you do this with a stiffer brush you can also create mud/dirt splatter by spraying it off the brush and onto the surface with an airbrush. (Practice first though).


HTH,

Marc

[Tom Neeson]

Hey thanks Marc,
    The fixer does sound useful, especially for RR models which might get a bit more handling than a static armor model. I have a few of the Abt 502 colors, but haven't used them yet. They seem to be mostly opaque, which is nice, compared to the typical artist oils which come in opaque, semi opaque, semi-transparent, transparent, etc...

Anyways, thanks again,
Tom

[marc_reusser]

After returning from a wild night of bowling last night, I finally started building the door.  I wanted it to appear as if they had simply used an old/salvaged door and frame from a building.

The door is built out of Basswood sheet and strip. It is a scale prototypical 1-3/4" thick (about 43mm).

This is one side so far immediately after receiving the peeled paint (will receive some additional weathering). The screw holes at the lock came out a bit big...but hopefully will not be so apparent when all is done.

It's not perfect, but I just wanted to get this thing moving again.




Marc

[RoughboyModelworks]

Looking good Marc... I like the adaptive reuse idea for an old door. Should fit it quite well with the overall feel of the model.

"Wild night of bowling..."    Thats what we used to call an evening of low-brow olympics... 

Paul

[finescalerr]

How did you peel the paint? Masking tape, scuffs, and a thin reapplication of more paint? It also looks as though you might have used a tiny brush to paint on a few peels but it's really hard to tell. -- Russ

[marc_reusser]

Thanks guys.

The project is getting a bit long in the tooth, so I am trying to hurry/rush it , and thus sacrificing quality a bit.

Russ: You are correct, the door is peeled with tape. But only one application of paint was used. I used a Vallejo acrylic, and just went over the door till I had the coverage I wanted some places I went over it twice (no drying in between)...and the resulting look is what came of it. I didn't paint in any flakes afterward, though I did do a tiny amount of touch-up in two of the iside panel corners, where the paint came off too much/wrong.

Thats what we used to call an evening of low-brow olympics... 

Paul

I feel it's beneficial to every now and then get out amongst the common folk, and partake in their activities.


Ok Here is the finished door (sans hinges). I should have mortised the latch box plate at the door edge, but was too lazy. The latch box plate and the door knob plate were made out of styrene strip. The raised circular detail is a MIG PE washer.






MR

[Ray Dunakin]

Very nice!

[lab-dad]

Much better with the weathering.
That first photo of the door had me worried 
-Marty

[TRAINS1941]

Very nice doors.  The buckets are of top quailty perfectection is one of your finer points.

Jerry