5x5x7 project (1/35 scale)

[mobilgas]

Much better since you weathered the door.....but the latch plate doesn't look right not being mortised into the door   Craig

[marc_reusser]

.....but the latch plate doesn't look right not being mortised into the door   Craig

I agree.....still debating about trying to pry the part back off, and odering a .030 mill bit so that I can cut it in (doing it with a chisel by hand won't really work that well, because there are 3 layers of wood laminated together there, and the glue between the layers will cause issues...not to mention trying to get a consitant .005" depth).

...for now I am hoping that it will just get visually lost once it's part of the rest of the model.


Marc

[Gordon Ferguson]

Marc, couple of suggestions for the door

Have you thought about putting another couple of top coats on and lifting these - most the doors I have seen being recycled look as if they have had multiple coats of paint over the years, this may help the aged/weathered appearance? (also think top coats should be a darker shade not seen many old doors with "white paint")

A completely useless suggestion as it is now to late .... but I have produced mortice's in doors by using multiple layers in the construction of the door ,notching the middle layers where latch/lock is to go then adding outer layers to make sides of mortise ..... used same technique for recessing hinges, etc.

Should add that this technique means you have to build 2 doors, the 1st is the one you build and then remember you need to add the mortice's etc 

Gordon

[shropshire lad]

   Marc ,

I agree with Gordon about the extra layers of paint , but not at the expense of getting the job done .

  I wouldn't lose much sleep about not letting the mortice lock into the door . I think it looks better that way as it adds to the effect of  a make-do-and-mend door that has been reused and rehung by a hamfisted non-carpenter .

  Now , what hinges are you going to put on it ? I suggest rising butts !

   Nick

[Chuck Doan]

Just close the door!

[Gordon Ferguson]

Chuck's comment shows a level of intelligence that should bar him from further posts  ... sorry missed out "high"

As for Nicks comment "getting the job done" personally I don't think there is any need to use that sort of language when talking to Marc!

Bye

[jacq01]

   Crack the doorframe in way of the lock......

   Jacq

[chester]

I agree, let the latch stay as it is. Often doors were planed down when they swelled up and they never bothered to recess the latch portion because it would mean having to change the handle setback also on that type of mortised lockset. Way too much work. We carpenters are a lazy bunch.

[marc_reusser]

Thanks for all the input guys.....will take it under advisement.

A couple of rationalizations:  In my restoration work I actually come across a lot of old doors...and believe it or not...most are white, off white, or cream.....especially the interior doors. Was worried about adding more layers (now it appears there were two), because it would make the finish seem "goopy", and un-naturally thick for scale effect (were this a metal surface....or even were the model part plastic.... it would definitely be do-able....but the method and technique on wood at this scale is not as refined....or at least I havent experimented to try and get it there.)  Sorry...no trick hinges ....roght now just trying to figure out how to mount the Aber working PE ones so they don't come loose at some point......

...and Chester...thanks most f all for the great way justify the latch issue.


In the meantime.....I decided that a caboose might need a lantern. I modified a 1/48 scale grant line oil burning headlight by extending the bottom, grinding out the interior/reflector more, adding a wick stem, adding a handle using some brass wire and left over PE pieces. The glass lens was cut from microscope cover glass.



The finished lantern...pretty straightforward...the only thinkg of note is probably the clear red lens. I was originally going to try using Tamiya "Clear Red" for this...but then while standing in front of the paint rack at the HS, I saw a spray-can of Testors #1605 "Candy Apple Red"....which is also clear....and was applied to the interior of the glass.





Marc

[finescalerr]

Simple, effective, beautiful. -- Russ

[lab-dad]

not bad, but where's the "light" gonna come from?
-Marty

[marc_reusser]

not bad, but where's the "light" gonna come from?
-Marty

Que?, Was?


MR

[mobilgas]

Marc,  cool idea using a oil burning headlight for a lantern....i think what marty is saying there is not a burner Pot inside the lantern???   usually when you open the front of a lantern like this you see a burner pot with a wick you pull out and fill...........  Craig

[Chuck Doan]

Excellent finish!! You could put that on E-bay as real. 

[marc_reusser]

Thanks guys.  It was almost a trash bin candidate....the finish kept going south on me, and quickly became overworked....in the end I just had to force myself to stop and let it be.

Craig: I figured my oil reservoi was in the base of the lantern....and the wick can be raised/adjusted externally with the screw-knob on the right side of the lamp (I added that detail for this purpose). Of course to light the lamp you still need to open the glass front.


Marc