What I spent My Allowance On (New Stuff For The Bench)

[marc_reusser]

I thought I would try starting a thread which everyone could contribute to as they wished, of stuff they have been buying for building and painting their models.

I don't mean for this to be an endorsement or advertisement of any product, manufacturer or supplier...nor to show of how much something costs or doesn't.......but merely a point of interest thread, for us to see what we use and buy for our modeling, and thus maybe helping others or giving them ideas of/for things they may want to try, or have not heard of, thought of, or seen......or may be unsure of where to get, quality, use, etc...........and have questions, or comments about.

Maybe it will answer some questions and encourage some to try new things, or help someone find that item they were looking for....and maybe also help in keeping someone from making a mistake or wasting their money by buying something.

[marc_reusser]

I received two packages of supplies yesterday that I had been waiting for.

The first was an order I placed wit Great Models:  www.greatmodels.com

The Milliput ($14.35)  was purchased to make some weld seams and do some more sculpting on figures. Since I did not have any real sculpting tools I ordered a 4-piece set ($15.32) they had that is made by Squadron. The tools are pretty nice quality for the price, they will take a bit of refining/personalization, but I look like a good starter set. They have a nice heft.

The second set of items in the order were some CMK pigments ($4.30 ea). I got these because I wanted to see what the colors and quality was like (plus I really like having a wide choice in my pigment colors that I have on hand). They seem to be of pretty good quality density. I like the colors/shade of the "Light Dust" and "Dark Dust"...this will be come in handy for numerous effects. The "Dirty White" is nice, but will obviosly have limited applications. The two rust colors are REALLY dark....though definitely useable to represent areas of really old dark rust (which I often need), I don't seem them having much use beyond that (They could probably also be used as part of a dark mud or wet soil mix.)

Lastly, were some items from ABER: Different diameters of copper wire (.2mm -.5mm) that can be used for wiring, cablie and "plumbing" lines. (it was just easier/quicker for me to get the sizes in one batch than trying to hunt them down by stripping various wires around the house) Also shown are two sets of 1/35 PE parts for "workable hinges" these contain different styles and sizes. The hinges barrels need to be formed around a wire, that then functions as the hinge pin. Though best for 1/35 and up...some might be usable for 1/48. They are fidely to work with and take a bit of practice/getting used to, but add a nice detail to any dor window, or other item that has a hinge. Also shown is a package of 1/35 "Bucles and straps....these will be used for misc detailing on 1/35 figures, boxes, stowage, etc.


Marc

[marc_reusser]

The Aber parts.

[marc_reusser]

The second package that arrived was from MIG Productions USA:  http://migproductions-usa.com

The first image shows:

Blue Filter ($7.00)...in the past I have used artist oils for this purpose, but I though I would give this a try on my current TACO project.

502 Abteilung Odorless Turpentine ($8.50). I have used the Grumbacher odorless thinner in the past..and still do for some things, but found this one to work better in disolving the oils (esp. when paired with the 502 oils) for washes and filters...it also seems to dry better on the surface and not leave (or as often) the drying rings that the Grumbacher can.

MIG Thinner for Washes ($8.75)...pretty much use this for any of my oil paint and wash thinning...same positive comments for this as for the odorless thinner above.

MIG Wet Effects & Damp Earth ($8.95)...this will be my first try at using this...so I amcurious to see how it works.

502 Abteilung Oils ($6.00 ea): IMO these are some really nice oils, the pigment is very fine and disolves wonderfully with the MIG or 502 thinner. I have used and still do use, Grumbacher, Windsor Newton & Rembrandt artists oils, but these seem to be of a finer grind for better dillution, finer detailing and better blending...they also seem to dry more "matt" than the typical artists oils. The colors I odereed this time were (L to R): #035 Buff [I use this for fading, rain streaks, filter, wash, etc.], #130 Mud [for washes, stains, and coloring of dirt and grime], #160 Engine Grease [speaks for itself], #080 Wash Brown [for washes, stains, and coloring of dirt and grime], #070 Dark Rust [ for pin washes, rust spots, and rust streaking].


The second image shows some MIG Pigments ($5.75 ea) I wanted to try/see: (the left side of each spot is plain pigment put down with a brush, the right side shows the color when it is wetted and held down with thinner.)

The consistance and quality of the pigment is great, and they will work beautifully for the purpuse their name implies (as well as others). The only one that was a bit "interesting" to me was the "Lunar Dust"...it looks like a simple grey pigment when just plopping it down on the cardstock, but when worked, it begins to take on a greenish hue, and when the thinner is added, this really becomes pronounced....I will definitely do some test pieces before putting it on a model...but I can see some applications for it.


Marc

[DaKra]

I'm going to get a sheet of these little 3d rivets to experiment with for my next project.  They are raised rivets printed on decal film.   

http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html


Marc, do you have a special preference for Milliput?  I haven't used that stuff in years, since I discovered Aves. 

http://www.avesstudio.com/

Pretty much the same thing, but cheaper and comes in more varieties and consistencies.  Good little company to do business with, they promptly answer email questions and can help you choose the right putty for your application.   I personally found Milliput was too too hard and brittle when it cured. 

Dave

[RoughboyModelworks]

General lubricant for the soul...



Sorry Marc... couldn't resist  

Paul — [on the way back to the corner, glass in hand...]

[Tom Neeson]

Oooh...I stopped by the local liquor agent this evening to pick up some supplies. I ought to be right well "inspired" in a about an hour or so.

Tom

[marc_reusser]

I'm going to get a sheet of these little 3d rivets to experiment with for my next project.  They are raised rivets printed on decal film.   

http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html


Marc, do you have a special preference for Milliput?  I haven't used that stuff in years, since I discovered Aves. 

http://www.avesstudio.com/

Pretty much the same thing, but cheaper and comes in more varieties and consistencies.  Good little company to do business with, they promptly answer email questions and can help you choose the right putty for your application.   I personally found Milliput was too too hard and brittle when it cured. 

Dave

Dave I recently got asked about the archer rivets, and gave this reply:

"I have used them, but do not use them......I found that they were a bit too much of a PIA.
Once the strips were cut from the sheet, and softened in the decal solution the strip of rivets started to break in certain areas along the length....they were also a bit of a pain to keep in a perfectly straight line once on the surface...esp. once it started to set.

I feel the rivets are too small for most "general" rivets in 1/35...meaning the type that we are most accustomed to modeling on boilers, cabs, etc....but they do work well for small riveted things we don't always think about detailing, like sheet metal covers on machines, hinge strips on tool boxes, piano hinges, or any type of fabricated sheet metal enclosure type thing.

Bottom line....I would not recommend them (but I do like their Casting Mark decals).....go buy yourself the Waldron "Micro" punch and die set.....it is really sweet...and I have easily recouped the $100 that it cost with the amount of rivets I have made, and the level of additional detailing I have been able to achieve/add."

If/when you do start using them I would be interested in your impression of them.


I cant speak to the Milliput......this will be my first go around with it. I needed it mainly for making weld seams (I needed a different type of seam, and thicker, than can be realisticlly represented with streched sprue of softened styrene.), and I figured since I was also doing some figure work I might as well give it a try and learn something new.  I have never tried the Aves....but it looks interesting and like something I will have to try incomparison.


Marc

[marc_reusser]

Paul...can we at least up the quality a bit?






.....or change to this?...






I used to have a bottle of the lower at my bench....but ran out.


Marc

[Ray Dunakin]

Here's where my money went this week:

Plumbing trouble: $1200
Car trouble: $2700
Wife's trip to the doctor: (Haven't got the bill yet).

Sigh.

When it rains, it pours.

I did manage to buy some styrene, though.

[marc_reusser]

Ouch!...sorry to hear that. I know those kinds of weeks or months...they can be a real downer.

Hope everything is now fixed, and your wife is doing well.


Marc

[finescalerr]

After the wonderful goodies Marc bought, my little $5.00 watercolor kit seems ... well ... banal. But it may serve its purpose on wood or paper.

Now for the important stuff. Gentlemen, single malt Scotch and Jack Daniels are fine drinks but an excellent cognac beats anything, hands down. Such liquid ambrosia is the nectar of my downfall.

Russ

[Gordon Ferguson]

Useful post Marc,


Those Aber hinges look interesting and worth getting hold of.

The MIG pigments are good, if you haven't got it yet would recommend you try their Industrial City Dirt, P039.

Not purchased yet but have left a few hints around the place just in case my wife doesn't know what to buy me for an anniversary present ... you know the subtle way  leaving the suppliers web site open on the computer, purchasing a book "Learning how to use Your Mini Lathe" and  may try using this photo as the screen saver 

[Belg]

Paul, I'm with you on the choice of lubricant, country boy at heart I guess. You could be a redneck if ..........you like Jack Daniels??

Marc, I was looking at the sample dots you put out of the rust colors and have to say those look like they are really dark, was it just the lighting or are they really that color? Also I wonder why would the odorless turp be so different between manufacturers? Pat

[DaKra]

Hi Marc

By "decal solution" do you mean a softening agent like solvaset or microsol?   Might have contributed to the breaking up problem?   

Although advertised as "resin" I suspect the rivet decals are printed by the same thermograph process as those fancy invitation and business cards, with the raised glossy lettering.    If anybody knows more, I'd appreciate the info. 

Try Aves and see how it works for you.  I get outstanding results with it, sticks well and sands out to a beautiful feather edge.  I almost never use autobody filler anymore, only for pin scratches and hairline gaps.     

Dave

PS as for drinks-- Wintertime, I usually keep a mug of tea warm on a hotplate on the workbench.  Picked up the tea habit while working in the UK.  Helps to keep the hands warm as the basement workshop hovers in the 50s from December to March.