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The color of steel

Started by Frederic Testard, April 03, 2010, 03:39:02 PM

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Frederic Testard

What kind of paint do you use to get the color of steel like on the chuck of this drill press?



If it was available in Europe, it would be even better...  ;D
Frederic Testard

lab-dad

have you tried the "blackening" chemical then polishing it?
I can try and post a pic if you need.
-Marty

finescalerr

They may not have it in Europe (although a Polish paper modeler had some) but the paint you want is Testors Metallizer paint. It comes in various metallic shades. You spray it on, let it dry, buff it to a sheen, and then spray on a clear coat, also by Testors. The results are excellent.

Russ

jacq01


   Humbrol has similar products, paint it on and buff with a soft cloth/tissue, exact as Russ describes.

   Testors is availabel in Europe.. Vallejo has a steel paint too.

  Jacq
put brain in gear before putting mouth in action.
never underestimate the stupidity of idiots
I am what I remember.

hguent2003

Maybe you could give it a try with a pencil like I did on the door handles of my engine shed in 1:45. Just rub it over the precoloured object.

Harald



Here is a closer look.


finescalerr

Effective yet simple. -- Russ

Tom Neeson

I've used Testors metalizers and they do work, but I've found the clear sealer changes the effect. So if you like the way it looks and won't be handling the part, I would not clear coat it. The paint is a little powdery and will rub off with handling.

I've had good luck with the Humbrol metalcote too.

I have some of the Alclad II airbrush finishes, but haven't tried them.

http://www.alclad2.com/alclad-home.html


Tom
No Scribed Siding!

SDwn

Hi Frederic,
     There are a couple of other ways that I have seen with good success. The first is to paint the whole part in various greys using no metallic paint at all. The metallic paint is then dry-brushed on for the reflected highlight (much like Harald's pencil lead). The other (which I have not tried yet) is to use the color smoke by Tamiya and put a couple of coats over the bare polished metal. I have seen some good results on some 54mm knights with all of their armour. Let me know what you come up with. Sean

Frederic Testard

Thank you for the various answers, everyone.
One of the methods suggested by Humbrol/Revell to obtain a metal color is to add some aluminium cote to any of their colors. I may try this one. I'll also try the pencil method (I suppose it is a matter of coating the painting part with graphite : very convincing on the posted shot).
And Vallejo has indeed some new metallic paints. I may pass an order for this too. I've found a supplier in the UK that stocks some.
I'll post pictures of the results as soon as I can.
Frederic Testard

Chuck Doan

Some good ideas...Harald, I sure wouldn't mind seeing some more pics!
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

RoughboyModelworks

Frederic:

If you first paint the object black or very dark grey, then brush a coat or two of Neolube over it, let it dry, then buff with a soft cloth, it will look like rubbed steel. Basically the same principle as suggested by Harald. Neolube is a micro-fine grain graphite in an isopropanol solution. The alcohol evaporates almost immediately leaving a smooth and fine graphite film on the surface.

Paul

narrowgauger

Hi Frederic

I get great results using a simple 7B lead pencil on small parts.

the neolube is wonderful for lager parts where the entire unit can be dealt with in on hit.

however the very soft 7B pencil is unbeatable for anything small or surrounded by parts that you don't want to treat.

simply rub the pencil in the "metal" part wait a couple of minutes and buff it with a finger tip or cotton bud.  Finger works better for some unknown reason [yes guys I a waiting for the remarks]

have fun

Bernard

hguent2003

Quote from: Chuck Doan on April 07, 2010, 07:53:41 AM
Some good ideas...Harald, I sure wouldn't mind seeing some more pics!

Chuck,

I'm not sure whether I should show my work here among all those masters :-\ but I will open a new thread to not hijack this one.

Harald

Frederic Testard

Thanks for the additionnal advice, everyone.
I think having neolube cross the ocean would cost a few thousand euros with all the safety constraints now in use. It was the estimated cost Bill Peters had given me a few years ago to send me some of PBL acrylic paint... (Well, I may exaggerate a little, especially since there was no euro then).
I used diluted Humbrol aluminium paint, polished it with a piece of Canson drawing paper and then rubbed the metal parts with a pencil. On these very small parts, it's not very visible, but I think the general appearance of the drill press is reasonable.



It will be part of the completely scratchbuilt equipment of this boat repair workshop, which is part of an O scale diorama I'm building to offer to Troels Kirk (inspired by Dave Revelia awesome 'Boat repair diorama' featured in the 2004 Logging, Mining & Industrial Annual of Finescale Railroader.
Frederic Testard

searoom

You could easily make your own version of Neolube. Sand a graphite pencil or better yet an artist's graphite stick to get powdered graphite then mix it with some alcohol. You can apply it with a tooth pick.

Garry