Using Google SketchUp and printapart.com

[Fred H.]

I am inspired by Chuck Doan's post on using SolidWorks and printapart.com

Therefore, I'm going to describe (and time) how long it takes to learn to use Google's SketchUp and then create ladders for C&S refrigerator cars in 1:24 scale. I am returning to scale modelling after a long hiatus and want to create my own line of C&S detail parts in 1:20.3, 1:24, and 1:32 scales. Since I need to have approximately 16-20 side ladders and an equal number of end ladders for my own use (hey, I love reefers), let's test the theory that it's possible for a very computer literate but ham-fisted modeler to do this!

[Fred H.]

Preparation (Not Counted in Elapsed Time)

Locate photographs of reefers, plans, articles in books and magazines.

Sources:

• Poole & Martin, Narrow Gauge Pictorial, Vol. VIII (C&S Freight and Passenger Cars)
• Brunk, Up Clear Creek on the Narrow Gauge, NG&SL Gazette,
• Derr, Those C&S Reefers, Outdoor Railroader, Vol. 4, No. 3

Photocopied drawing from Poole and Martin. Enlarged to 1:24 scale.

Side ladders will be 24" x 90", five rungs, with a bottom step.

[Hauk]

I am inspired by Chuck Doan's post on using SolidWorks and printapart.com

Therefore, I'm going to describe (and time) how long it takes to learn to use Google's SketchUp and then create ladders for C&S refrigerator cars in 1:24 scale. I am returning to scale modelling after a long hiatus and want to create my own line of C&S detail parts in 1:20.3, 1:24, and 1:32 scales. Since I need to have approximately 16-20 side ladders and an equal number of end ladders for my own use (hey, I love reefers), let's test the theory that it's possible for a very computer literate but ham-fisted modeler to do this!

A very interesting project!
What .stl export plugin for sketchup do you plan to use?

[Chuck Doan]

This will be interesting to watch.

[mabloodhound]

I certainly will be watching for any info on the Sketchup portion.   I've had moderate success with Sketchup but some of the photo modeling techniques baffle me still.
I viewed all the tutorials on You tube and still can't get all the nuances right.   I probably need a classroom presentation to get it right.

[marc_reusser]

This looks like it will be a very interesting thread.

If I may interject a comment here re. drawing in SU. It is possible to do drawings in SU directly, but I have found that it is far easier and much more accurate to do your highly detailed drawings in a CAD program, and then import them (both plan and elevation drawings, then assemble [or extrude] them in SU to give the 3D model or component.)

The SU videos show pretty "basic" form drawings....but I have been able to get very detailed, accurate and refined drawings for my "real world" work, using SU......one just needs to remember it is only a "tool" and should not be "overthought"....the best aid in working with it, as in any CAD program, is understanding basic drafting/layout principles....from there it is a breeze.


Marc

[Fred H.]

Update 1: Elapsed time = 4.5 hours

Wasted the afternoon messing with SU in my typical learn-as-you-go fashion. It was time well spent, because it got me focusing on how to use this particular tool. (Thanks for the suggestion, Marc, but let's stick with the original premise of the thread... can I just use SU to produce a simple part for which I need a large quantity.)

Best photograph of the ladder. (Page 90, Poole and Martin):

[Fred H.]

Here's the end-result of my labors... Not too bad, all things considered, but... I'm going to start again from scratch.

The height seems to be right, but the uprights are under-sized (1.5 x 1.5) and the whole ladder too wide by about 3 inches. Based upon this side-by-side review, I judge the correct dimensions to be: H = 90" W=21" and the space between the rungs = 17." I'm guessing that the uprights are 2" x 2" stock.

[Fred H.]

Update 2: Elapsed Time = 6.5 hours

Here's the redo. It's in VERY good shape, actually. Now all I need to do is figure out the rungs! (I thought the 1.5 inch size step was a nice little detail and was probably pretty close?)

The little piece at the top is to keep it together if I decide to stop here and do the rungs out of flattened brass wire.

[Fred H.]

Final shot of the evening. -- Fred H.

[marc_reusser]

Looks good so far.

A tip to ease the work, if you do not know it already: on your part for example, if you draw one of the basic 2x2's select it by itself (make sure not to have any other parts lines in the selection window/group), and do "Create Component" you can then copy and paste that piece/component for the second 2x2, and any alterations/additions/modifications you do to one of them, will automatically occur on the other as well. (note re this. If you are copying components that are side-sensetive...IE, adding bolts to the surface, and you have simply copied and pasted the componets on two sides of a car, you will need to "flip along axis" the other component...so that the bolt heads show up on the syurface rather than into the car sidewall (hope this makes sense) .)

If you copy a previous component, say a sheathing board or sill, and you want to keep the original component as is while modoifying the copy independently for a special condition, you need to use "Make Unique" for the component to be modified, prior to working on it (otherwise it will change the original one as well.)


Hope you don't mind info/posts like this.


Marc

[finescalerr]

How could anybody mind? This amounts to a custom tutorial on using SU, something I've needed forever. Maybe I'll archive the thread to make it available to others as, in the future, more people get involved with this kind of modeling. Keep the tips coming! -- Russ

[Fred H.]

Thanks, guys. Marc, I don't mind at all! I'm sure I'm destined to get stuck soon and will want your help!

I've been working in design (as part of my overall communications career) forever. My work in creating tabular layouts for print items, web sites, etc. has been extremely helpful in getting this far this fast. I should have mentioned last night that when I started the second attempt the first thing I did was to create some guidelines at the exact locations where I'd later be drawing the various elements in 2-D. To get the guidelines right I drew a simple rectangle (22" x 101") right at the zero point of the three axes (red, blue, and green lines.) The illustration shows the guidelines and the part at the end of the night. -- Fred H.

[Fred H.]

Oh, BTW, what's the general consensus about what's holding the rungs to the uprights? It looks like rivets to me, but could it be round-headed bolts (the kind with the little square cross section underneath the head)? Also, how would the bottom step have been attached to the uprights? Would it have been bolted? (That's my presumption.) If so, which side does the nut/washer go on? Inside the step or outside?

[Frederic Testard]

I have no clue about the questions, except that I had had the feeling that the rungs were simply inserted and that there was some way to hold the two ends of the uprights which made everything stay in place.
Apart from this, there's a real pleasure to watch your work. Thanks for sharing it.